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Bens-Bees
Apr 8th 2010, 07:54 PM
Alright, so I've got a bit of a conundrum going... recently one of our daily driver vehicles started acting up. We know what the problem is, and that it will cost around $1000 to repair. The vehicle itself is only worth around $2500 going by kelly blue-book, and that's about what we owe on it as well. It used to get decent fuel economy, but now that it has 175,000 miles on the odometer, it only gets around 22.8 mpg average. We (mainly I) also want to get a flatbed truck to use as a bee-truck.

So here's the dilemma... do we keep the problem car, and get it fixed for a total cost of $3,500, then buy a flatbed later... or do we sell it/trade it now and get out oweing nothing and buy a flatbed now but have to use the flatbed as a daily commute vehicle to my "day job" (which is actually a night job) until I have built up enough to do the bees full time?

Here's another question... given that we're going to get a flatbed at some point anyway, would you buy a flatbed that had previously been used for bees (that would presumably come with whatever method was used to load/unload the hives), or would you look for the best deal on any flatbed and then add an EZ loader or liftgate or whatever?

G3farms
Apr 8th 2010, 09:11 PM
I think I would fix the car and keep on driving it.

A flat bed truck for taking you to work and back is very expensive. Lets just say you get a one ton truck, your fuel mileage will be cut in half, and just the regular maint. will cost much more (oil changes, brakes, tires), and insurance could cost even more also.

If you have your heart set on a truck I would get a good 1/2 ton truck and a good 16 foot trailer, it will haul more than you will think.

Just my thinking anyway.

Bens-Bees
Apr 8th 2010, 09:23 PM
Oh, there's one other problem with the car... given the number of miles on it, and that it's a Chevy, I know that in about 50,000-75,000 more miles it's going to get very expensive to continue maintaining anyway. BUT, that's another 2 years out, possibly 3 and I think that if we fix the current issue it should make it those 2 or 3 years without another serious incident.

srvfantexasflood
Apr 9th 2010, 01:26 AM
In what other car can you make payments on for 2-3 years for less than $1000?

tecumseh
Apr 9th 2010, 06:09 AM
if you have a reasonable good and honest mechanic then drive it till the wheels drop off.

G3farms
Apr 9th 2010, 07:57 AM
haha my BIL drives an 88 toyota corola back and forth to work, I would say 80 miles round trip. Says he is still getting around 32 mpg and can not afford to part with it. The insurance company called it totaled when he got into a little fender bender a couple of years ago, he bought it back from them, fixed it and is still going. It got nicknamed the "little blue goose".

G3

Charles
Apr 9th 2010, 11:54 AM
Another vote here for "keep it" what is the problem with the car and where did you get the quote for the repair? If it was at the dealer then they will be on the high side for sure...

Iddee
Apr 9th 2010, 12:51 PM
It sounds like hubby wants a truck and wifey doesn't.

If you can't cook and do laundry, you better fix the car. :o :lol:

Bens-Bees
Apr 9th 2010, 02:02 PM
Another vote here for "keep it" what is the problem with the car and where did you get the quote for the repair? If it was at the dealer then they will be on the high side for sure...

The body control module is going bad... along with one of the wiring harnesses... and the ignition switch. My wife works for a fleet vehicle maintanence company, and we had one of their technicians look at it, he's very familiar with this particular vehicle and problem, and we've known him for a while now and he's an honest guy, plus the repair would be at cost.


It sounds like hubby wants a truck and wifey doesn't.

That's pretty close, but wifey wants an SUV.


If you can't cook and do laundry, you better fix the car. :o :lol:

Or learn to beg well... :beg: :lol:

I do want a truck for sure though... but I think you're all right in that we should keep the car and get the truck a little later this year without trading in the car. Thanks for the advise on that.

rast
Apr 9th 2010, 06:10 PM
In the FWIW dept., Sarge, I'm currently building a trailer. I don't have to look like a beekeeper going down the road to be one.

Bens-Bees
Apr 9th 2010, 09:37 PM
Well I've got a trailer rast... the one I have only holds 2 pallets, and even if I bought a larger trailer, I could only haul a maximum of about 8 pallets and still be safely below the weight limits for the class D CDL requirement... and that's fine for short hauls around town, but if I have to haul down to say, Florida for a pollination contract, I want to be able to haul the most hives that I can while still not having to get a CDL class D liscense (I want to put this off as long as I can). A flatbed truck with a trailer would allow me to haul more than double the number of hives that the trailer alone could haul, and as long as the truck doesn't go above the GVW rating max for non-CDL, then I can haul all over the place without having to get a CDL and mess with all that junk.

Hence the reason I'm getting a flatbed truck... whether the wife wants it or not... I can always hire a maid and eat out... :lol:

The only question here was whether or not to trade in the car to get the truck, or to keep the other car in addition to the truck and our other car which runs fine... and I think I'll keep both cars and get the truck as well.

The only other question is whether I should primarily look for trucks that had prior use as a bee truck and presumably would come with either an E-Z loader or whatever to load it with because if I get a standard flatbed, then I'll have to add either an E-Z loader or a liftgate to load it with pallets (or get a truck-mounted forklift). So the question is if I would get a bargain on the loader by looking for a former bee truck or if I'd probably get gouged on it instead.

tecumseh
Apr 11th 2010, 06:11 AM
Rast writes:
In the FWIW dept., Sarge, I'm currently building a trailer. I don't have to look like a beekeeper going down the road to be one.

tecumseh:
I hope you will provide a few pictures when you are done Rast. I certainly would like to see some of your work (ps... I have built more than my share of trailers and repaired more than my share of trailers for $ of course I was wearing a different hat). I would also suggest to you Rast that innovation in design is often time hindered by folks idea of what something should look like to comply with some image. Do something radical which makes the job easier or of higher quality and you have in some small way changed the world.

ps... I know it's a long way from the folks expressing some interest... but I think at one time Sundance had a Kelley hive loader that he talked about selling.

Jim 134
Apr 11th 2010, 03:34 PM
You must have a CDL to opaerate

1 A single vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of more than 26,000 pounds ( or if the vehicle as airbrakes)


2 A trailer with a (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds if the gorss combinartion rating is more than
26,000 pounds

3.A vehicle designed to trnsport more than 15 persons (including the diver)


4. Any size vehicle which requires hazardous materils placards

Note: If you are adding an
airbrake or passenger
endorsement, you will be
required to take a full skills
test in a properly equipped
vehicle

BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)

rast
Apr 11th 2010, 06:28 PM
Sorry to disappoint you Tec, but I am just making a standard ol flat bed trailer out of an old boat trailer I already had and some angle iron packing crates I get for free. I do know of a hive loader, circa 1960's, locally, that I can get. Haven't looked at it yet so don't even know if I want it.

tecumseh
Apr 12th 2010, 04:43 AM
I was thinking more like a self load and unloading trailer Rast with robotic arms to do all the hive manipulations when the trailer wasn't running down the highway.

I seem to recall that there was an exception for beekeeper to Jim's 134 rule above?????

Jim 134
Apr 17th 2010, 08:26 PM
You will all so need a madical exaniner's certificate .If the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds or Gorss combinartion rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds


BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)

rast
Apr 18th 2010, 11:25 AM
"You will all so need a madical exaniner's certificate .If the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds or Gorss combinartion rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds"

There must be some exemptions to that or most motorhomes would be parked, just commercial maybe? Mine weighs 15,000+.

Iddee
Apr 18th 2010, 01:14 PM
You need no medical card unless you drive for hire or carry paying passengers.

Jim 134
Apr 27th 2010, 11:52 AM
"
There must be some exemptions to that or most motorhomes would be parked, just commercial maybe? Mine weighs 15,000+.


Some RV plates are exempt




You need no medical card unless you drive for hire or carry paying passengers.


Hope you do not get stop on commercial plates by the DOT


BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)

Iddee
Apr 27th 2010, 12:38 PM
If you have commercial plates, you are driving for hire.

Ozark Lady
Apr 27th 2010, 04:54 PM
I was setting at the post office, yesterday, and a car pulled in beside me, it was a medium sized car. Then, as I started to leave, I saw the rest of the car!

Apparently the owner, had cut and welded it. It was a flat bed car! It was still in primer, and had small rails on the back, where the backseat and trunk should have been. It looked like it would be pretty good on gas, since nothing stuck out at odd angles, and the body work flowed pretty nicely.

So, I vote keep the car, and make it also a flat bed truck!

Jim 134
Apr 28th 2010, 04:00 AM
If you have commercial plates, you are driving for hire.


commercial plates are done by how many lbs. the vehicle can carry but some RV plates are exempt


BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)

Iddee
Apr 28th 2010, 04:45 AM
I guess it varies by state. You can see 1/2 ton pickups and vans here with commercial plates. All Taxis have them.

Bens-Bees
Jul 6th 2010, 09:32 PM
Well if you read the chat you know the car gave me trouble yesterday... more serious than before I think. I "fixed" it today though... fixed it by trading in on a Chevy Silverado 4x4, extended cab, regular sized bed with liner, towing package... basically a whole lot of truck. But we didn't come out so bad on the deal... paid less than blue book for it and got twice what we owed on the car for the trade... all that meant the payment will actually go down... of course that will all just go right back into the gas tank, but at least now I have a truck! Moreover, I can haul 8 hives in the bed of the truck and 8 more on the trailer which I won't have any trouble towing now (not that I had any serious trouble before but I sure was nervous towing it with the car and the hitch that wasn't built for the car but I fitted to the bumper.

Iddee
Jul 6th 2010, 09:42 PM
Now throw that bedliner away and have a Rhino sprayed in and you will have a truck. If it's like the ones I've had, that bedliner is slicker than an ice rink.

Bens-Bees
Jul 7th 2010, 12:27 AM
Yeah I like those Rhino liners... they help keep the truck from rusting out under the liner, too. I very may well get that done... good advise for sure.

Bens-Bees
Jul 7th 2010, 09:25 PM
I forgot to add that it also has the towing package so I can tow a big trailer with it if I want as well... or just tow my little trailer for now until I grow enough to need a bigger trailer.