the home made E caller.
The coyote population is exploding in the east. Many are now trying to hunt them to kleep the population down.
I want to point out I did not start this building but a fellow on Predator Masters did.
His user name is SDHandgunner .All Ihave did is up date the price of the things you need from Radio shack and give you an Idea of the size of the cup.
So here we go.
Since there seems to be a lot of interest in building an Electronic E-Caller I think this post will save some time in the long run. To start with I am no expert, but have been building E-Callers for the better part of 10 years. OK so maybe I am too cheap to buy one, but to be totally honest I guess I have yet to find one with all the features I want in a pre-made Caller. For the first several years I would build one, use it and then as I was using it I would figure out a way to make it better. For the most part this meant more compact. Sonce of the ones I have built were from ideas shared by guys that also enjoy putting these types of callers together, while other ideas were out of despiration to make the units more compact. I have used Cassettes, CD's, and finally MP3 Players for the sound source (and yes even used one of the Boom Boxes a time or two).
To start with you'll need an Amp. I have found the little Radio Shack Amp (part #277-1008 = $12.99). I have experimented with this and other amps and dollar for dollar this little amp works, provides all the needed volume for about 90% of the calling you'll ever need, and the 9 Volt transistor Battery seems to last forever (provided it is not left on when not in use for days on end).
This little Radio Shack Amp actually is in a small plastic housing and there is a little 2" speaker inside the housing. The first thing I do is to remove the amp circuit board from the original housing. Next (through trial and error) I find the sweet spot on the volume control (on off switch volume control) at which the volume does not get any louder by turning the volume past that point, but rather just increases amp hiss/noise. I then remove the volume wheel from the volume control and hot glue the volume control in a fixed position.
Since we have disabled the On-Off Switch on the amp, we need to wire in a separate On-Off Switch (Radio Shack #275-1565 = $2.59 ea). I also like to wire in a small LED Indicator Light to help in not leaving the Amp turned on when not in use (Radio Shack #276-084 - $1.99 ea). One wire from the LED Indicator Light and the Red Wire from the Amp Circuit Board get soldered to on terminal on the On-Off Switch.
The positive lead from the new 9Volt Battery Connector (Radio Shack #270-325 = $1.99 per pck of 5) gets wired to the other terminal of the On Off Switch. The negative wires from the new Battery Connector, Amp Circuit Board and LED Indicator Light all get soldered together.
That is about it for wiring. Depending on how or what you choose to mount your amp in (I use either a Radio Shack Project Enclosure #270-1805 = $3.79 or an insulated Coffee Mug) you may or may not need a couple of 90 degree adaptors (Radio Shack #274-372 = $3.99 each. The 90 Degree Adaptors are needed for clearance to get the speaker and patch cord (that goes between the amp and the sound source) plugged in inside of the coffee mug.
Next is the patch cord to go between the Amp and the Sound Source (Radio Shack #42-2497 1' patch cord with 1/8" Stereo Plugs on each end = $4.29) and the sound source. You can get a premade 6' patch cord also if you need to have the sound source farther away from the amp.
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