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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for a 2nd hive for next year. I found a site that sells brushy mountain hives. No idea if they are good or not, but they look cool. Anyway, they have an 8 frame hive. Would this be better than the 10 frame hive I have now?

Jason
 

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It's easier to lift 8 fully filled and capped frames of honey then 10, but you don't get as much. It's a trade-off. I would suggest sticking with one or the other for the interchangeability of equipment.
 

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As a general rule in a ten frame hive, which is all I am familiar, the bees will use the number 10, 9 1, 2 for mostly honey stores and pollen, minimal brood , leaving the queen with 6 full frames to lay eggs in, mind you this a mid summer configuration assuming the bees would do the same in a 8 frame hive meaning 4 full frames for brood rearing and that's simply not enough brood space, My thoughts
Barry
 

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That's the one thing about beekeepers, our commonality! :shock: Not! :lol:
You will find almost every configuration under the sun if you look hard enough. Me, I'm a kinda pack mentality kinda guy (for the most part). If you are looking to pick up deals on equipment or perhaps thinking someday you may downsize, standard size stuff is the way to go.
 

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I agree, I would go with the standard if your back allows. I use Brushy Mountain hardware and have never had any issues, I do however use Miller hive top feeders versus the ones sold by Brushy.
 

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Why would weight matter? A frame doesn't weigh any more in a 10 frame box than it does in a 5 frame nuc. I would think most beeks would be smart enough to lift frames, and not a 3 deep hive as 1 unit.
 

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Well to tell the truth I went with 8 frame hives thinking it would be easery to manage, I found out that I cannot even manage an 8 frame hive filled with honey. It is one frame at a time for me from now on. Since I started with the 8 frame I am going to stay with it. Knowing what I know now I would have got the 10 frame hives.

kebee
 

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Well I am 6' 3" and still in decent shape, ( note I did have spinal surgery few years ago, I can list heavier stuff, but have to take a bit more care then before. ) The only hive components I use are deeps. purely for the facts that 1.) anything I grab, will fit on what I already have out. No need to sort out anything. 2.) whether I want to maximize brood area or honey production, 10 frame deeps are the way to go. With that said there is a reason for the 56 different flavors of ice cream in Howard Johnsons.
Barry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yeah I'm seeing that too. And since I'm getting a 2nd hive I might as well get one that can use parts I already have. Next step will be where to buy a 2nd hive.

Jason
 

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I use 10 frames,deeps for everything, except some shallows for comb honey, and I like it:grin:
 

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The biggest difference I've noticed between 8 frame hives and 10 frame hives. In New England you need 20 deep frame for a brood nest on a 10 frames deeps hive you lift about 18" to put on the honey supers on.On 8 frames deeps hive you lift about 27" to put on the honey supers on.


BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
 

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I use 8 frame deep equipment. No regrets. They only time it would be nice to have a 10 frame is when I'm making a split -more to give the new hives.

There are fewer accessories for the 8 frame and 5 frame equipment. :)
 

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You asked, where do I buy a new hive?
Well you said your place sells Brushy products. I use all of Brushy's products. Everything they have in 8 frame, they also have in 10 frame. Maybe lack some of the cedar option but have everything else. I like all that I have got from them. I am close to them so it helps not shipping anything.
Tim
 

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If the bees "loose" 2 frames you need to give them more space in another box. Than you have a 16 frame hive in two boxes, means you have to lift everytime the upper box to take a look in the first box. That´s not easier for me :) I have 10 frame Jumbo/Dadant (and LS) and I´m thinking in 12 Dadant. Just made a 21 frame Dadant to see what will be the optimum size for my region.
 

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If I had to start all over again I'd get all 8 frame equipment instead of 10 frame. My friend has 8 frame- way easier to deal with!
 

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My .02 worth,
All of MY equipment is 8 frame. I see no advantage or disadvantage to 8 frames.
I do work a close friends bees, (he was kind enough to get me addicted to this).
All of his woodenware is 10 frame. He continues to suggest that I am able to combine portions without thinking in the mindset of 8 frame. He is (83yrs). He is just able to stand close and observe and point out opinions that all of us keeps have, his are just always the right way!

So I just remind him of some things not being compatible. I just do not mix or move any of his into my stuff, even though he is suggesting that they are my bees at his place. He sure loves HIS Honey! and I am so happy for him!!!

Tim
 

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if i started over again, i would ask for a stronger back that never breaks down or aches, and very muscular arms (bionic? superwoman?:grin:)......and i'd have a forklift or some apparatus to move hive bodies around........and not mr rb or some other strong strapping individual of the male persuasion; they sometimes like to tell you how you should lift and move hive bodies......:lol:

ps. i use all 10 frame lang equipment deeps for brood boxes and medium supers, i use 9 frames in the deeps and 8 frames in the mediums. right now, i am still good, maybe in the next 10 years my physique may and will tell me different....and really don't know that i would start with 8 frame equipment, but would be fun to have
a hive or two of these at my rural suburbia residence.
 
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