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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
been reading everything I can find, wanted to know your thoughts on putting 9 frames rather then 10 in the broodboxes? good, bad, and the metal 9 frames holders you can put in the boxes to space for 9 frames?
 

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With wide spaced frames the comb gets irregular and bulgy which creates a problem if you move frames from hive to hive or swap within the hive. The notched 9 frame spacer frame rests prevent you from sliding frames apart to keep from bee rolling when you lift them. Gaps wider than "bee space" get filled with burr comb much more than tightly spaced frames.
It might be easier pulling frames if you used 9 tightly together and a dummy or follower board to fill the remainder. Pull that first then you have lots of room to spread the frames and easier to lift without rolling bees.
 

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I like to keep 10 frames in the brood box. The main reason I 9 frame the supers once drawn they are easier to uncap. When you remove a frame out of the brood chamber you are redusing the space they have for the stores around the brood nest and the brood nest itself. Try this do the math if you remove one frame that can be used for brood how many cells will be removed for the queen to lay in
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmm Ive got problems then, the 1st hives built up with 9 frames and the 2nd i wanna move now has those metal 9 frame holders in it, now gotta switch the frames to a new box and add a frame before they get all built out, and get rid of the metal in the old box :(
 

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Many beeks run nine frames. You can if you want. Keep in mind that on a forum, you get the way the poster does it. It's not always the only way it will work. In fact, it is seldom the only way it will work. I suggest you leave it that way, then make your next hive with 10 frames, and see which you like best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
good Idea, I was planning to split these when the time comes so Ill have both kinds and see whats what, thnx again Iddee
 

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Iddee is right, posting a question on a forum is kinda like fishin. You may catch alot so keep some for now and release/file the others away for later, you will seldom get bad advice here, we are an international family and what works or is legal for one may not fit you or your location. Jim
 

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once drawn I run 9 frames from the bottom to the top of the stack. everything comes with a trade off... in my case less square inches of honey or brood area but increased ease in inspection and enhanced ventilation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok after working with 9 and 10 frames in boxes I like 10, comb is getting too screwy for my taste in 9 frame boxes and I am having trouble with fitting 5 frames in the nucs from 9 frame boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well, spent the day sunday changing out what boxes I could to 10 frame, its actually the honey on the frames thats the problem, the bees keep building out the comb that filled with honey that its bulging out, owell live and learn.
 

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uncapping and extracting from the fatter frames of a niner is a savings of time and equipment. Since you (usually) don't extract from the broodnest, but want maximum room for laying, there ten frames are best.
I find it best to have the frames built in sets of ten and when they're all set and the honey starts coming in, reduce them to 9. There's always enough hives with unbuilt frames to accept the removed frames--or use them for splits or for housing swarms. After the honey is extracted, it's back to 10.
 
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