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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody using the better beetle blaster?

I picked up a couple at the co-op the other day and put them in this afternoon.

Will report back with the results, I figured cooking oil is the least toxic of anything you could put into the hive for killing beetles.

G3
 

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I'm sure they are as effective as AJ's beetle eaters, but more expensive in the long-run.
 

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as a bought item I have only used the aj trap. marginally effective and much too difficult to manipulate. they are not such a bad thing to keep around for a small scale emergency.
 

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tecumseh, what do you use for large-scale?

I've been keeping AJ traps in all my hives just letting them sit there as a place for the bees to run the beetles into to kill them... havn't had any problems with them yet... and I've figured out that if you fill them just barely above the fill lines and no more you can set them down on their side (with the top on) and not have any leakage. But I'll admit they aren't the easiest things to manipulate and if there's a non-toxic alternative I'd love to know about it.
 

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sgtmaj writes:
what do you use for large-scale?

tecumseh:
healthy bees and pumping up weak hives with just a tad bit of feed and a frame of sealed brood from time to time (often times only once with the brood, feeding may take just a bit longer).

I really think that a well fed and robust hive does a much better job of dealing with the shb than anything I could buy or build.

lastly a word in regards to bee yard hygene (of the beekeeper kind). do not toss the debris from a shb invested hive on the ground. I now carry an iron pot and starter fluid in my truck and all the debris from shb invested hives (or more commonly nucs) is tossed in the kettle and burned. this being a 'trick' suggested to me by Sundance which appears to be much more beneficial than I ever would have first thought.
 

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Well I've never had an infestation of SHB... but there's always one or two in every hive. I've always focused on just ensuring that the beetles have no where to hide that the bees can't get to and keeping some place in the hive for the bees to run them into that will kill them.
 

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I have also found SgtMaj that rotting equipment is really asking for problems from the shb. If you provide a home for the little buggers they will stay way beyond their welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I did the hive cut out a while back, the wood was rotten beyond any type of repairs and the beetles were not very rampant in there. I put the beetle trap in the nuc that I transfered them to and had only caught 25 or so as of yesterday when I transfered them to a 10 frame box. There were several beetles still roaming around that met their maker on the end of the hive tool. For the most part I would say they work pretty good, a thumbs up :thumbsup: to the trap. I figure if it will catch one a day they are worth it.

G3
 

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So far ( knock on clean good wood), no hive beetles so far, of course my equipment is new and painted. I have always maintained colonies at opr close to max strength, ensures that there is always enough bees to perform the hive chores, as most know the bees do specific tasks at specific ages by maintaining the colony at high population levels not only have foragers in adequite supply, but also plenty of guard bees, and house keeping bees( and here in florida ventilator bees to get the air circulation going ) Will just have to see how all plays out. I NEVER allowed hive debris to hang around always concerned about ants specifically fire antsI do treat the ground around the hive with ant repellants and seems to be working, also have marigolds aplenty along the sides of the hives, seems the pyrethins( KNOW I probably mispelled it, but believe is close ), in marigolds act as a natural insect repellant, without bothering the bees.
Barry :drinks: :drinks: :Dancing:
 
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