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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over the weekend Menards had 1 by's on sale. So I bought a 1X10 to make 2 deeps. Boxes came out really well. Finger joints were tight. Not bad for not having a dado blade. Very slow though! I didn't think about it till done that a 1X10 is only 9-1/2 inches. My frames still are above the bottom. Should have i bought 1X12's?
 

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Yeap! Makes since at first though doesn't? I almost forgot about dimensional lumber sizes the first time because I was consumed with the price difference between 10's and 12's. I found a few 1x12-10 at Home Depot that had splits on an end and asked management if they would mark them down. He gave me 50%! I figured I could rip the split ends and use them for vent supers, entrance reducers, inner cover frames, etc. Keeping the standard dimensions of your supers keeps the "bee space" in check...
 

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a snip of a question..
Should have i bought 1X12's?

tecumseh:
yep... or split out some very thin strips of wood and add these to which ever dimension you have shorted. ps some boxes are 9 and 5/8 inches and some are 9 and 11/16 so there is nothing absolutely precise here.

or use these boxes only as the bottom box (remembering never to reverse) and just add a bit of depth to the bottom board <even an old fashion reversible bottom board has two dimension so this dimension is not so critical either.​
 

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Don't know about thickness though, most finished 1 by lumber is only 3/4" thick. Most store bought boxes are 7/8" thick. Hard to mix and match unles you go all one way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All my deeps I have bought are 3/4" thick. 9 1/2 " deep. The 2 I built are 3/4 thick but only 9 1/4 deep. Are the ones I bought from the supplier wrong?
 

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Perry writes:
Most store bought boxes are 7/8" thick. Hard to mix and match unles you go all one way.

tecumseh:
I am certain 'most' is not the word I would have used here. I have noticed some commercial boxes that appear to be about the thickness you describe. I don't know which manufacture even makes these. Most all of the traditional suppliers wood wares still appears to be standard 3/4 inch stuff.
 

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It could very well be a Canadian thing tec. We don't actually have too many manufarturers of woodenware up here, F.W. Jones (Quebec) is probably the largest, Lewis and Son (Manitoba) and I'm not really sure of who else. All of their stuff is 7/8", the only time I see any 3/4" is if it's homemade. Nothing wrong with 3/4", in fact it's a lot cheaper to buy if you are making your own. It's just when you set a narrower box on a wider one and it rains, there are edges for water to lay on (not that that is much of a problem where you are) :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
All my deeps I have bought are 3/4" thick. 9 1/2 " deep. The 2 I built are 3/4 thick but only 9 1/4 deep. Are the ones I bought from the supplier wrong?
Back to this question...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bees will be ready for pickup this week. Need to buy more deeps so if 9 1/2 is too shallow I need to do something else. To me what is a 1/4 inch? But, i'm not a 1/2 long..
 

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Crazy...I'm going take back what I previously said...I measured my last batch of deeps and the height was 9-1/2" and they work fine w/my frames (walter t. Kelley N-style at 9-1/8" tall) and I cut a 5/8" deep rabbet. I forgot I used different plans that time. If my math is correct, the space between the bottom of the frame in top brood and top bar of bottom bar is 1/2" which is violating the legendary 3/8" bee space by an 1/8th. I am going to take my chances with the bee glueing this up for the sake of saving money buying 10" vs. the really expensive 12's. The tens will already be 9-1/2" and ready to go. I have pdf files for for a complete Langstroth hive. Let me know if you want me e-mail them to you...
 

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I looked up the height of Kelley's deeps and they are only 1/16" larger at 9-9/16"...I'm not going to lose sleep over it.....
 

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Back to this question...
If your boxes are 9 1/2" and your frames are 9 1/8", that should leave you 3/8" for bee space and that is fine. The depth of your frame rest rabbet will only determine where your bee space is, either on top, bottom, or as I do, split the difference.
 

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I agree Perry...I thought about that earlier today when reading this thread, adjusting depth of the rabbet to make it work. And, thanks for the math...I really did make it through secondary education but when it comes to fractions...well, my mind starts to spiral into mush for some reason...ha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The 1X10 I bought and never checked is 9 1/4. So the frames have an 1/8. So, i thinking that too narrow. Amy i correct?
 

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I am late to this discussion, but lumber is measured as raw cut, a 1"x is in fact 3/4" PAR (PAR is= Planed all round)

Of course you could go non standard and cut your frames down , but that would mean they could only be used on that hive,

Best IMHO would be to rip a strip and add it to the boxes to make them 9 5/8", if you glue it wood to wood and then paint / varnish all sides it will be as strong as the box.
 
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