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Here are my ideas. under 215 Sq.Ft. not much larger than a garden shed deep supers stacked 6 high hot cabenate storage of 72. Dadant stacked 9 high 108 supers. storage of up to 8 barrels of honey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
WOW!
Now that's what I'm talking about. Absolutely fantastic. It really gives you a sense of space and movement.
I don't know how much time you put into that Keith, but............WOW. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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pk says:
"A milk house you say? hmmm.
I wonder if I could talk my father into letting me take over the milk room in the barn."

then perry said:
"Where's the drooling smiley when you need it"
:lol:nice milk house keith! mine needs a ton of work!
nice design plans apis :grin:
 

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It's a scaled down size of Perry s uncle Leo"s honey house.
Now I got to go do some work taping drywall today.
Let me finish the taping, you stay here :lol:
ApisBees,what would be, in your opinion, the optimum size of HH for 300 hives operation with 20x13 wood shop included? Thanks
 

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Marbees
Ideally 300 hives = 800 deep honey supers or 1400 Dadants area for winter storage =180 Sq Ft

50 barrels stored honey 100 Sq Ft if you have a forklift, otherwise 200 Sq Ft other misc storage for nuc boxes Queen mating nucs total 300 Sq Ft storage.


What size type of extractor do you have what is your load run time? It is nice to have the supers in the hot room for a day or two before extracting. Minim hot room size 1day extraction run, or capacity to handle 2 day honey supper pulling.
What other type of equipment do you have holding tanks filter strainer wax spinners?
Although it is nice not all of these things need to be in a single building. Shipping containers or old semi trailers makes good storage and can be picked up quite reasonable at times. If fork lifts are used in your operation high ceilings will reduce the required size of shipping building.


Are there any restrictions on outbuilding size in your area? In our area if you want to build a building larger than 26 X 32 you need to apply for variance permit and they want to know usage neighbors have to be given the chance to challenge the permit. Is there height limits? Can you add a second floor for offices, storage, rental suite?

There was a standard deign used by beekeepers in this area 24’ square building and these guys ran around 250 to 300 hives.
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Send me your equipment list or wish list (I am using 2 30 frame radials but would love to upgrade to a 60 frame horizontal radial)and I will draw something out. need now and plans for in the future.
 

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Thanks ApisBees, sent you an e-mail, forgot to mention that for storing the honey supers I'll use a shipping container.
Also, planning on having wax processing corner.:smile:
 

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This may be a shameless way to get ideas but hey, I've never been shy. :lol:
Given some of the obvious talent on this forum in the design department (regarding t-shirt logos), I thought it might be interesting to put all of everyone's experience and dreams together, and come up with the "perfect" design for a honey house.
There would only be a few parameters, a few helpful guidelines to keep in mind: 😉

First, let's say you have an uncapping tank that measures somewhere around 33" by 20", with a drain in one end.

Second, let's say you have an extractor, say a 20 frame radial, about 32" across, that loads from two sides. :lol:

Third, let's say you have water-jacketed clarifier/sump, say about 42" by 15", give or take.

Fourth, you probably have a honey pump, which doesn't take up much space.

Fifth, let's say you have a circular bottling tank that is about 22" across.

The rest would be taking into account storage of full supers, empty supers, doors, sinks, etc.
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This could be a template for anyone thinking about setting one up.

Any takers?
Here's a request for some of you bigger beekeepers. Say you process anywhere from 100 to 1000 supers a year. How is your honey house laid out? What works best for you for work flow? What materials did you choose to help with easy cleanup?
 
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