Entrance reducer/Boardman Feeder/New colony
If using a Boardman feeder and a new colony of package bees, do you use an entrance reducer cut to size while the colony makes itself at home?
Bees arrive late March, I live in North Florida, zone 8b, in a rural environment, and fruit plants/trees are already blooming.
Bees arrive late March, I live in North Florida, zone 8b, in a rural environment, and fruit plants/trees are already blooming.
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
It looks like your new bees are really loving it. Your set up looks really nice. Good job.
Ok, I have been reading about entrance reducers, when to change them, remove the, honey flow etc. There seems to be a lot of opinion on this topic. I did my first hive inspection on Sunday and found the bees making comb and filling with what I assume to be sugar-water and pollen. There was a piece of burr comb I scraped off that was delicious and tasted like honey..
In the morning there is a steady stream of 5-6 workers returning with pollen each minute mixed in with the guards and others. The landing pad is already stained orange-yellow from pollen. There is always a lot of activity at the entrance but the returning pollen gatherers seem to get head-of-the-line privileges getting back inside but there is a lot of climbing over others to do so.
Should I I consider swapping out for the larger opening?
In the morning there is a steady stream of 5-6 workers returning with pollen each minute mixed in with the guards and others. The landing pad is already stained orange-yellow from pollen. There is always a lot of activity at the entrance but the returning pollen gatherers seem to get head-of-the-line privileges getting back inside but there is a lot of climbing over others to do so.
Should I I consider swapping out for the larger opening?
Good question and one that does bring a lot of different answers. I actually made my own entrance reducers with about a 5 inch x 3/8" slot right in the middle. I could never figure out why they put the slots on the end, one small and one large. When the flow is on and strong and lots of bees coming and going, I use the large opening so they don't get all hung up on the runway. When there isn't a whole lot of activity I place a block in front of the slot and reduce the size down to about 3-1/2 inches so the entrance is easier for the guard bees to defend. I keep the entrance small for the winter also. That's just the way I decided to do it this pass year and it seems to be working fine. Don't know if it is the right way to do it. Had one beekeeper tell me that the reason the slots are on the end is so cold air doesn't go in the center under where the brood is. I don't know that for sure as all my hives, 7, made it through winter with lots of bees.
My mentor keeps his opening at 3-1/2 inches year-round but his is on the end. Go figure, can't tell those mentors anything, lol.
BTW, Your question is one that I keep looking for answers for myself.
My mentor keeps his opening at 3-1/2 inches year-round but his is on the end. Go figure, can't tell those mentors anything, lol.
BTW, Your question is one that I keep looking for answers for myself.
I would say the entrance size depends on the strength ( number of bees)of your hive ..small numbers can only defend a small opening, if your hive is big and full, open the entrance a little..if you watch them and see how they go in and out and doesnt seem to be a bottle neck, leave as is, if they are having to climb over each other to get in open a small amount at a time till it looks like they can get in and out without issue, also keep an eye out for robbers...unfortunately there is no right answer on what size works for all..you have to determine what works for YOUR hive at a particular time..
That is indeed the hard part of a new hobby; figuring out what works! The one thing that gives me comfort is that there is so much debate on entrance reducer use. It tells me that the restriction is only necessary if the hive is under attack, otherwise it is an insurance policy that probably adds some inefficiency to the bees lives.I would say the entrance size depends on the strength ( number of bees)of your hive ..small numbers can only defend a small opening, if your hive is big and full, open the entrance a little..if you watch them and see how they go in and out and doesnt seem to be a bottle neck, leave as is, if they are having to climb over each other to get in open a small amount at a time till it looks like they can get in and out without issue, also keep an eye out for robbers...unfortunately there is no right answer on what size works for all..you have to determine what works for YOUR hive at a particular time..
I think I’ll wait until I see returning foragers getting stalled on the landing board then give them a bigger hole.
Good game plan. That is what I do. I watch them up close and if I see them having a hard time getting in because of a jam up at the door, I give them plenty of room. They are trying hard to get the pollen or nectar into the hive and in a hurry to get back out and get some more.That is indeed the hard part of a new hobby; figuring out what works! The one thing that gives me comfort is that there is so much debate on entrance reducer use. It tells me that the restriction is only necessary if the hive is under attack, otherwise it is an insurance policy that probably adds some inefficiency to the bees lives.
I think I’ll wait until I see returning foragers getting stalled on the landing board then give them a bigger hole.
There is so much robbing in my area that one of my hives has a one inch opening on either side, by full 3/4 inch gap, and the other has a 2 inch opening on one side by full 3/4 inch gap. They can defend that and still not have entrance crowding. That's north Texas.
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Beekeeping Forums
A forum community dedicated to bee owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about breeding, health, behavior, housing, hives, care, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
