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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering what to look for when it is time to change size of opening or remove completely the entrance reducer. My new hives are at the point they are walking all over each other to get out. could i turn the reducer to the larger notch or remove completely?
 

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I'm with medic on this one! :)
but I tuck mine in a bit more so there is only one opening
 

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I removed a couple on hives are booming....plus, it was very warm the week I removed them. I wanted more ventilation besides relieving congestion.
 

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I say turn it upside down and join the upside down club...
:lol: Medic, just using the words "upside down" acknowledges that they are not "right side up". :lol:

Like the rest, simply switch to the next largest opening or remove altogether. I rarely use the "smallest" opening, even in winter. Middle size opening and then remove 'em.
 

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I had one of those one time. It may still be in the shed somewhere. I might use it in the winter if I was a member of the tundra division.
 

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If the bees are "walking all over each other to get out", that's a sure sign you''ve got a honey flow running. Open the door all the way and let them move without crowding. They also need the room for ventillation--to cool the hive and the evaporate the nectar (they go together). As an "aside em" allow me to say that the entrance block you have is nice to look at, but any piece of wood that fits the opening is equally good. Cut it or break it to expose as much or as little of the passsage way as you want. You'll find it a lot cheaper but just as good. :rules:
 

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srvfantexasflood said:
"Is that how they do it in the Land Down Under? aka Australia?"
that's how they do it in NEW YOUR CITY :lol:

crazy8, ef 's post is a good post. i would open the door all the way. ef said: "any piece of wood that fits the opening is equally good. Cut it or break it to expose as much or as little of the passsage way as you want. You'll find it a lot cheaper but just as good."

i have used lathe in a pinch when i couldn't find the ones i made or bought stored in iddee's shed :lol:
 

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Addendum: If you want (for esthetics or any other reason) to have the entrance in the middle, just break your stick in half and place each half starting from the side.
 

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I have found scrap 1x2 is just the perfect height, and a 6 inch piece here, a 4 inch piece there, or an 18 inch piece with a right side opening, the bees adapt just fine. Just so it's not treated wood.

gypsi
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Removed the reducers. Bees thanked me.
 

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describe what happened when you did :grin:

if you put your face down close to the hive opening when the bees are fanning you will feel the draft of air on your face and hear the sweet humming of their wings....
 

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describe what happened when you did :grin:

if you put your face down close to the hive opening when the bees are fanning you will feel the draft of air on your face and hear the sweet humming of their wings....
I'm not trying this without a veil!
 

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Addendum: If you want (for esthetics or any other reason) to have the entrance in the middle, just break your stick in half and place each half starting from the side.

I was wondering... entrance reducers force the bees to enter from one side. I noticed my packages of bees favor the foundation on the side of the hive where the entrance reducer opening was. It forces the beekeeper to shift empty frames around to get the bees to fill them all out. Would it be better to do like efmesch suggested, or is it a good thing they are building on the side? Would it be better if they started in the middle and fanned out? Or would they want to go straight up? Or, was this all just a coincidence?:???:
 

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You are right - brood nest is by the front door in my hives. Hmmm...
 
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