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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Painted and ready to go! :thumbsup:
(Just have to book tickets to Florida, look up Zookeep, and start watching the $$$ roll in!) :mrgreen:



In the last picture I have the shim in place but I have yet to install one piece. I don't think I can use #8 hardware cloth easily so I am on the hunt for some perforated sheet metal that will slide in the saw kerf easily.
I also haven't installed the weatherstripping yet, I'm not convinced I'll need it, the pieces fit so well together.
Total cost on this was less than $10

Thanks to those that have posted/shared their ideas and plans for others to try! :thumbsup:
 

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Looks fantastic, Perry!!!! And it matches all of your bee boxes to boot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
"Fresh Cut Grass" green :mrgreen:
"Sunshine" yellow :mrgreen:
When I started out beekeeping, everything was white.Then I figured it wouldn't hurt to personalize my stuff so I went with two colours who's names I figured I would remember. Different stuff gets painted different colours. My comb honey boxes are purple, bee escapes are red, etc. I figure if I ever have someone helping me, when I ask for the "red ones" or "purple ones" they won't bring me another inner cover or honey super . :lol: (plus, the purple was an exterior mistint and really cheap) :thumbsup:
 

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Looks great Perry :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: ,I like the eye-hooks on the bottom board for the ratchet strap,I'm gonna add those to mine.
 

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Yep you can use the #8 hardware cloth with ease. Cut some sheet metal (think thin stuff like duct work is make out of) into 2" wide strips and bend the strip in half long ways and sandwich the hardware cloth in between and then finish closing the strip up. Making a frame around all four edges of the hardware cloth. If you have a buddy in the HVAC trade it would be a snap for him to fabricate. If you have access to a spot welder a few spot welds in the right places make this a winner for sure (or you can solder the corners up as well if you have the tools).

Just another thought is maybe put some kind of construction adhesive in the sheet metal before installing the hardware cloth and squeezing it together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmmmmmmmmmm, you may be on to something there G3! :thumbsup:
I was thinking that perforated sheet metal might be too restrictive for the shop vac.
 

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I'm really confused, how in the world does that work? It looks like a completely different design than what I use... of course, I never used plans I just sorta winged it with mine... I've built two over the years, and the second one definately works better than the first... but neither of them look anything like that. I can't figure out how the bees get sucked into that contraption or where they go from there. I'll take some pics of mine later to post so you can see how different they are.
 

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Ben, I think Perry inserts a hive body w/frames between the sections. The vac hooks into the top and a suction hose(intake) hooks into the bottom and the bees end up in the middle section (hive body). Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jim is right Ben.

This is the bottom, the hose that connects to this is the one you use to suck up the bees.


Then on goes your hive body, (in this case I only put 4 frames in for show)


Then depending if it's an established cut-out or a swarm you may or may not use the shim. Robo describes the use of this as a great method for reintroducing frames of tied in brood back to the bees without opening the hive up. This shim would sit on top of the box of bees with another deep on top of it, and then the top vac piece. The frames of comb would be placed in the upper deep and then the top placed back on, and the screen in the shim slid out. (my shim doesn't have the sliding screen part installed yet) If you are not wanting to use or save any of the brood comb (SHB), just skip the shim and the second deep and collect the bees.


The top has the 2 holes, one to the vac, one for regulating the vaccuum suction.


Once you're done, simply slide open the top for ventilation during transport, swing the screen closed on the bottom piece and you're done.


Hope this clarifies it. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just an update.
Got a visit from a friend who had brought his buddy with him who was interested in bees. Was showing them my bee equipment and the new guy (Dave) was looking at the bee vac I just built. I was explaining how it worked and that all I needed to finish it was some metal or screen to slide into the saw kerf in the 1 inch spacer. He tells me he works in a metal fab shop and he was doing some work on an elevator shaft roof and he had some material that he thought might work. He took the dimensions down and said he would see what he could do.
Yesterday I got back from visiting another friend in Lunenburg (another story/thread) and I found this leaning against the door when I got home. The length is 2" longer with a bend at the end to use as a handle for pulling / pushing it in and out. It will fit perfectly.
I laid a tape across it to see if anyone sees a problem, I'm pretty sure the bees can't get through.






Some days I cannot believe just how lucky I am! :mrgreen:
 

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the holes look to be about 3/16" in diameter, will work perfect. Nice to have friends and new friends also.
 

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Perry says: "Some days I cannot believe just how lucky I am! "

I says: "It couldn't happen to a more worthy guy"
 
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