Honey House Part 2 - The Beginning

Discussion in 'Building plans, blueprints, and finished projects' started by PerryBee, Nov 14, 2012.

  1. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    Have always been sick and tired of having a single wide driveway and the resulting 2 car shuffle every time Jane or I need to go somewhere (and the vehicle I need is always the one behind the other). Decided to do something about that.
    Had a real nice guy named Irvin (70 years old and just bought this hoe 2 years ago :thumbsup:) come over and do a little digging to prep things. Dang, seems he got carried away with his digging :wink:. Brought in a load of boulders which he placed, a couple loads of pit-run (some of which was used to fill in that extra part he excavated :lol:) and a final load of 3/4" crushed stone.
    About the only thing I might have to do is change the size of the building that I may as well put on that pad seeing as it's there anyways.
    I may go with 12 x 18 feet (and try to lose 1 square foot to get to 215 so no permit is needed).
    Every journey begins with that first step.:mrgreen:
     

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  2. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    is that a 94 gmc pickup?
     

  3. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    Oh yeah, :clapping::yahoo:eek:n getting the hard part (the start) behind you!
     
  4. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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  5. blueblood

    blueblood New Member

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    I think this honey house is on an unstoppable roll...I am wagering we see a honey house in 2013 at Perry's Ranch....
     
  6. Adam Foster Collins

    Adam Foster Collins New Member

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    Oh yeah, it's going to happen. The way he's sniffin' out the deals on honey processing gear? It's happening.
     
  7. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    Perry 2a.jpg
    No Problem Mon! or could just make it 12' X 17' 11"
     
  8. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    :thumbsup: :wink: :mrgreen: This seems easier than the first option you drew. :lol:
     
  9. G3farms

    G3farms New Member

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    Perry how do the figure the square footage, from the inside of the outside, could make a big difference.

    Just make the eaves high enough that a couple of years down the road you can add a "lean to" to one or both sides.
     
  10. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    Here you go any ideas or suggestions?
    Perry 2b.jpg Perry 2c.jpg Perry 2d.jpg Perry 2e.jpg
    G3farms the size would be calculated from the foundation foot print so the outside framing siding and overhangs don't count towards SqFt but can effect set back from property line.
    Perry what are the setbacks for an out building. back property line side property line most times can't be in front of the house towards the street. And if any one asks it's a garden shed. You keep bees in your garden and it is a shed you keep your bee garden tool in. If it gets labeled special use they may start asking questions requiring plumbing permits and they wont look at a plumbing permit with out a building permit and along with the building permit the want a site survey done. And a zoning study and variance. I once asked a building inspector what his suggestions on something were and if I needed a permit. His response was "Some times these things get done on the weekend and we know nothing about them".
    G3 brigs up a valid point the foundation has to be 215 SqFt if you cantilever over the foundation 2 feet an all sides you would have a 14' X 21' 11" building that's 307 Sq Ft. and tempting fate that they may not see it that way. Side Note for property taxes you're footage is based on roof area. and this system was setup before Google maps satellite view. Now they see every shed and deck that gets covered in your back yard.
     
  11. G3farms

    G3farms New Member

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    Are you going to put in a concrete floor or crawl space? Reason I ask is because a honey house to be legal in TN has to have a floor drain, and if it is a concrete floor go ahead and put one in and run it just past the edge of the footing for future hook up if necessary. have had several tell me they were declined a permitted honey house until a floor drain was installed. One fella put one in but it did not go anywhere:lol:
     
  12. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    #3 and #4 look pretty good to me Keith. :thumbsup:
    This is not going to be a honey house in any "legal" sense, more of a place to "store" my bee equipment. :wink:
    I will install a sink and hot water tank but not have them actually connected to anything. I would like to have them plumbed to a fitting on the outside that I can run a 20' hose from the house to for those days I may need to (sort of like the camper or RV hookups at those camping parks). For a drain I may simply use a holding tank with a sump and pump it out when convenient (it's not like it's sewer waste).
    The only concern about permits is the size and the distance from property lines and I'm safe on that. Size is determined by the exterior dimensions of the building itself. The building will not face the street or west (driveway), but will face south towards the backyard.
    I'm glad this has all been discussed and bantered about, it saves the possibility of missing something I may not have thought of.
     
  13. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    Perry are you on city sewer or septic tank and drain field? What type of soil do you have in your area? if you are unsure of the ground drainage do a peculation test. dig a hole 2 ft deep one ft square and pump a 5 gal pail of water in the hole and time how long it takes for the water to disappear. It will let me know if a dry well will work or if a drain field is needed. you could ask Irvin what the ground is like in the area. Draw me a rough picture of yard, house, driveway and street are and were the bee shed will be located. where your sewer leaves the house and at what height, under the basement floor or 2Ft under the ground level. most times there is a clean out were the pipe exits the building.
    G3 in order to get registration as a food processing facility in the tundra floor drain is needed, the walls have to be built on top of a 6" curb, the walls need to be covered with an CSA approved plastic sheets, fiber glass panel sheets, laminate, non rusting metal or painted with an epoxy resin paint. You need washroom facilitates with sink, hand wash sinks, and then 3 compartment sinks to wash, rinse and sanitize. all lights are to be sheltered by shatter restraint covers. Just some of the requirements there is a hole section in the building code and also regulations specific to honey processing plants. The building is not big enough to apply for certification on.
    Although building a big enough honey house on a city lot has its merits, the smallest farm with farm status in B.C. is in Vernon with a total acreage of 1/4 acre. he claims farm status and pays farm rate on taxes water and sewer.
     
  14. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    Apis:
    We are on town water and sewer. The expense to go whole hog and have a certified honey house would do me in. The water and sewer both come up through the basement floor and are higher than any possible floor drain in the HH could tie into. :???:
    One of the reasons for building this HH in the dimensions I am thinking of, is to have the ability (if and when), to possibly move it to a piece of property just outside of town. A 12' x 18' dimension would be easy enough to pick up and transport to a more "suitable" location (if necessary). I have been keeping my ears and eyes open for a small plot outside of town for a while but nothing suitable (in my price range) has popped up.
    I do not know if our regulations here in Nova Scotia are as tough (yet) as they are in BC. Dave Campbell, owner of Campbell's Gold in Aldergrove built a new Honey House with a Meadery attached and the hoops he had to go through were incredible! $600,000! :shock:
    Here you only need to be CFI approved if you sell outside the province.
     
  15. Zookeep

    Zookeep Active Member

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    1) a lift station would work for you, its a pump in a barrel with a float switch, when you run the water in the honeyhouse it fills the barrel a bit turns on the switch and you could even hook a garden hose (when its not bellow freezing) to the pump and send it to a drain in the basement of the house.

    2) location, I see a big problem with the location of the said building, because of the snow and wind you might have a problem, might I suggest a warmer location???? (points to lot in my back yard):lol::rolling: :beg::beg:
     
  16. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    A couple of questions the bee shed is going to be placed on the gravel pad were hoe is siting in photos 4 and 5. So you want to build this building on skids with a wood floor or do you want to pour a cement slab? Treated wood will give you a 40 yr floor and foundation life that is what the manufactures say.
    What height is your basement ceiling in your house?
    Is the basement finished?
    What sewer plumbing do you have in your house, ABS, Cast Iron and Copper?
    What size of power service do you have? It looks from the service coming in that it is at least 125 amp service. Do you have 2 empty breaker spots? if not what type of panel do you have? They do make 1/2 size or double breakers to give more circuits in a crowded panel box.
     
  17. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    Keith:
    Yes, pretty much where the hoe is at the end of the driveway (pic# 1), front facing south (to the right). I like your one design where the double doors face the end of the driveway for loading/unloading purposes (design #4) but am trying to figure out how to put a man door and window on the "front" facing the backyard.
    This will have pressure treated floor joists on top of a couple (maybe 3) 8x8 or 10x10 skids.
    Our basement ceiling is just under 8', and is unfinished. We gutted it when we bought it and removed all the ductwork and went with Electric Thermal Storage for heat. Because we did that we rewired and bumped up to new 200 amp service (mast, panel, the whole shebang). I saved the old panel for use in an outbuilding just in case. The panel I have in the basement has LOTS of room. :mrgreen:
    The plumbing (sewer is original, either clay pipe, or worse, that old no-corrode), all water and drains lines are new. If we ever went to change anything (permit) we would have to separate the sewer from the footing drains (in '67 they ran them together) and that would mean running a separate line (on my dime) out to the main which of course is on the other side of the newly paved road. :roll: I estimate cost for that alone would be more than the cost of the outbuilding and all my gear combined.
     
  18. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    How about a door with a window and a side light. Perry 2e1.jpg Perry 2e2.jpg Perry 2e3.jpg Perry 2e4.jpg Perry 2e5.jpg
    I colored one to match your truck.
     
  19. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    Thanks Keith:
    Looking at the floor plan above, would it be possible to remove the man door on the left and center it where the window over the sink is? Then shift the uncapping tray along the wall where the man door was, and have it next to the hot room? The extractor, could it go into the corner (or is there some inherent flaw with that?)
    What I thought would look nice is if there was a door and at least one window on the side that faces the backyard (which is the one with all the equipment on it now).
    The way you are able to do this is impressive! :thumbsup: I guess now is kinda late to ask what your rate is! :shock: :???: :lol:
     
  20. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    Perry 2e6.jpg
    I was thinking you were thinking this direction. Easy unload from truck leave enough room to still get a truck in the back yard if need to. Equipment could be stacked and stored in hot cabinet for 9 month per year and used as a shop for building and assembling. But I am taking from your last post you want it placed across the end of the driveway.
    You cant get things to tight. Once you have the supers in stacks in the honey house you will be moving them with a hand truck so you need enough room to lean the stack of supers back and wheel them into position. Perry email me your address and I will Google maps your place and scale of it and the size of your house and i can scale off it.