How do you store your supers in the winter?

Discussion in 'General Beekeeping' started by mjrice, Sep 5, 2011.

  1. mjrice

    mjrice New Member

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    I've heard some people say to stack them outside, exposed to the weather, and others say to put them in an airtight bag in the basement for the winter. Also, some people treat them with something for wax moths and others don't. Any insight and experience appreciated...
     
  2. Murrell

    Murrell New Member

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    My frames are sprayed with BT when new in the beginning, after extraction placed back on hives for bees to bee cleaned. then stacked in open shed on solid floor { mice you know}
    Next spring spray with BT again, { not really needed but too cheap and easy not to } and start over again.

    Murrell
     

  3. Walt B

    Walt B New Member

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    I do pretty much as Murrell: stack them in the barn on pallets with solid "floor" and spray with BT.

    Walt
     
  4. Eddy Honey

    Eddy Honey New Member

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    Here we go with these abbreviations again lol. First it was DT now it's BT....I'll bite...what is it...? I typed BT into a search and came up with Bacillus Thuringiensis. Is this it?
     
  5. Murrell

    Murrell New Member

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    Best bet look up Sundance in the members list he can explain it fully.

    XENTARI
    BT AIZAWAI

    Murrell
     
  6. efmesch

    efmesch Active Member

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    Bacillus thuringiensis it is: A bacterium that attacks and kills the larvae of Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths). When the wax moth larvae feed on the sprayed hives, they ingest the the BT and it kills them. It has no effect on bees or on honey for human consumption and falls into the category of biological control agents, non-poisinous organisms that help to control pests. ;)
     
  7. gunsmith

    gunsmith New Member

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    Where can I get BT? I just checked the Mann Lake catalog and can only find a product called "Para-Moth"
     
  8. Walt B

    Walt B New Member

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  9. efmesch

    efmesch Active Member

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    I'm not familiar with brand names, but it sounds like crystals of the same material "moth balls" are made of (para-di-chlorobenzene, I think).
    Ive used them many times and they are effective--providing that you stack your hives solidly and there are no cracks for new mooths to sneak in after the crystals evaporate.
     
  10. gunsmith

    gunsmith New Member

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    It doesn't say in the catalog what it contains, but I'd bet you're right, I had always thought that moth balls primary ingredient was naptha, but the key word here is THOUGHT. So, instead of paying big money for a "bee specific" product, why can't I just sprinkle moth balls throughout the area where I store the frames, inside a plastic "deck box" that I bought at the local home store. I have one dedicated to frame storage, and it is weather tight, but probably not moth tight.
    Thanks ef and Walt.
     
  11. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    There are two different moth balls in the store. The paradichlorobenzene ones can be used. The other ones cannot. Of course, they only last a short time, where BT lasts the life of the comb.
     
  12. gunsmith

    gunsmith New Member

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    OK
    Thanks Iddee. I'll buy the right stuff. Didn't realize there were 2 different types. I thought moth balls were moth balls. Guess that's what I get for trying to do a job (thinking) without the proper tools.
    That's why I joined this forum and why I spend so much time here.
     
  13. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    That's why the forum is here.Glad you use it.
     
  14. gunsmith

    gunsmith New Member

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    I use it, and have a great time doing it.
     
  15. tecumseh

    tecumseh New Member

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    thanks Iddee for pointing out that moth crystals are not moth balls. this seems to be a constant point of confusion. the first time you place moth balls in a stack of supers and come back to find them full of wax moths will reinforce this lesson <been there, done that.

    with paradichlorobenzene you need to separate the stack about every 5 or so boxes with newspaper and add a tablespoon or so of the product (on the paper). after treating you then need to wrap the boxes in plastic or cover with a tarp... this just limits moving air thru the stack which vaporizes the product. in very active wax moth areas you need to unstack and retreat about every 45 to 60 days. there is some concern about the long term health effect of using this product since benzene is considered to be carcinogenic. para moth require any treated boxes to be air out (takes about 2 days or so) before placing back on a hive.
     
  16. Sundance

    Sundance New Member

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    There are several subspecies of Bt., many are
    not as effective. The subspecies Aizawai is the
    one that was in Certan. The only product I am
    aware of that was certified for bee use.

    I switch to Agree WG awhile back as it also contains
    the protein from Bt Kurstaki, and is more effective
    that Xentari.

    The product is invaluable in my orchard and garden
    as it is inexpensive, and stores well (in dry form).

    It is also rated Organic in agricultural uses.

    Crazy that it isn't "legally" allowed for use on bee
    colonies. But Paramoth is??? A carcinogen?? Go
    figure.
     
  17. Hobie

    Hobie New Member

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    If you are cheap (like me) you can get a block of urinal disinfectant from a janitor's supply... most are made of paradichlorobenzene. Chip a chunk off and apply per tec's post, above. Store the rest in a zip-lock in a sealed container. Seems to last. Kind of stinky in the spring, though, and I air mine out before using.

    After my wax moth fiasco this year, I will be applying BT to all comb.
     
  18. Sundance

    Sundance New Member

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    "paradichlorobenzene"

    Do you really want that in your honey??? :eek:
     
  19. Murrell

    Murrell New Member

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    Sundance
    Darn, now You come out with something new !
    I bought a 1/4 lb. of BT 4-5 years ago from you and still have a lifetime supply !!

    Guess, I just have to live with it, AND no moths !

    Murrell
     
  20. Sundance

    Sundance New Member

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    Good one. The old stuff is still darn effective, just
    the new product is a bit better.