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it looks like brushy mnt. puts a extra staple on the underside of the top bar verse's Mann lake's one staple through the top .. i had some Mann lakes come apart already this season at that joint.. brushy claims that they have the strongest frames on the market..
whats your opinion?
 

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like Walt i assemble my own. i often use staple guns and pin nailers for assembly and either of these are not fool proof when you pull the trigger. the pin nailer (used to place pins nails thru the end bars) are subject to going where the do little good, so i now also place two pin nails thru each end bar. when i placed only one pin nail in the end bars maybe 1 or 2 in a hundred frames would come apart. just enough 'going bad' to be a nuisance.
 

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I assemble my own also using 1/4" crown staples x 1 1/4" long, 1 staple through the top of the top bar into the end bar, and then 1 staple through the end bar into the top bar. Have never bought Mannlake before but use the Brushy divided bottom bar which are made out of one piece of wood (rather than two strips like Kelley's) and they get one staple through the bottom of the bottom bar into the side bar. All joints get a touch of tight bond III glue and that makes them almost indestructible.

The use of a frame building jig can turn them out in short order. The jig I use is based on Kelley's design, but I think I will build one based off of Robo's design over the winter.
 

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I'm switching to all Mann Lake. My BM cypress boxes look like awful after 5 months, warping , checking, etc...maybe they aren't made for my S. Jersey climate.
 

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I bought some BM deeps this spring and had to use them before I could slap any paint on them, they still look good as far as the shape of the wood, just a bit darker and weathered looking.
 

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I can't speak for Mann Lake frames; I've got Brushy Mt. and Kelley's in the mix now. I think the Brushy frames are a bit beefier, and I really prefer the one-piece divided bottoms as opposed to Kelley's 2 strips (as G3 said).

My one problem w/ Brushy frames (and this one really bothers me) is that their top bars sit a tiny bit higher than the other frames. This is either because of the thicker top bar or the way the "ears" are constructed, but it boils down to me crushing bees under the inner cover. It's not a problem in any other part of the hive, but when I use a flat-bottomed IC (or I imagine a flat-fitting migratory top) I consistently crush bees.
 

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a d.magnitude snip:
and I really prefer the one-piece divided bottoms as opposed to Kelley's 2 strips (as G3 said)

tecumseh:
once the small hive beetle arrived I decided the split bottom bars are a thing of the past. I still have quite a number around in old frames but the new stuff is all solid bottom bars.
 

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Hmm... Good point Tec.

I guess that slot would be an obvious haven for SHB. I'm not one to not use the equipment I've got on hand, but maybe my next order should be solid bottom bars. Do you run plastic foundation with grooved bottom bars?
 

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I use Mann Lake equipment. Plastic Rite cell foundation with grooved bottom. I did my first extraction last month, and had a couple of frames with wired wax foundation that I inherited, and had a couple of them blow out. My fault-it was my first and I overcranked. I also blew out one of my plastic foundation frames before I learned the knack of extracting.
 

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dmagnitude writes:
Do you run plastic foundation with grooved bottom bars?

tecumseh:
right now I use plastic foundation and solid/grooved bottom boards. prior to that I pretty much used plain foundation and wired all my frames. my current stock of frame is mann lake although mostly in the past I have used Kelley frames. my customer loyalty index in regards to Kelleys has fallen substantially in recent years.
 
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