My Plan for Queen Making

Discussion in 'Raising Queens' started by Crofter, Jun 25, 2013.

  1. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    Am starting to get the gear ready to attempt making a few queens. I think grafting is out for vision and hand steadiness reasons. I have made a very sharp and thin cell punch from a 300 Win. Mag shell casing and have a frame with holder bars made up. I am thinking to set the cell plug directly onto the bar rather than go with removable adaptor bases though I do have them if the acceptance is good with my cell punch out.

    I have a wireless fresh wax foundation nearing fully drawn and I have my breeding colony getting used to an upper entrance. I have a Cloake Board made up which I can use to tell me which deep the queen is in without having to find her. (queen finding makes me Mad....... not angry, Mad!) It also allows to easily make the cell starter part of the colony queenless. My son uses it in conjunction with the Hopkins Method.

    I think I may use a strong five frame hive to finish off started cells so I dont interrupt my donor hive too much. It is a pain that it has three medium supers up top to move every time I go into the brood boxes.
     
  2. jb63

    jb63 New Member

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    Take lots of pictures Frank.Please.
     

  3. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    Cell Punch IMG_0683.jpg IMG_0684.jpg IMG_0687.jpg just nicely surrounds a single cell and should destroy less than cutting a strip out of the comb. Hypothetically anyways.
     
  4. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    IMG_0658.jpg IMG_0659.jpg Cloake Board; just have to put the vaseline in the groove of the slide, Lol!
     
  5. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    IMG_0660.jpg IMG_0661.jpg IMG_0664.jpg Slatted bottom rack for queenless starter / finisher, screened bottom and top cover, thanks Joseph Clemens. This is what I was building when I slatted my finger on the table saw. Just about have that skin all back but will have a special fingerprint on that one!
     
  6. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    IMG_0666.jpg IMG_0668.jpg IMG_0669.jpg Cell holder frame

    Divided 10 frame five and five or three and frame feeder,
    mating hive with separate entrances
     
  7. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    IMG_0670.jpg IMG_0672.jpg IMG_0677.jpg Frame feeder and two frame dummy board in 10 frame hive body.

    Entrance between 1st and 2nd deep
    created with wedges. Got to get the bees
    Used to going into top box when cloak board
    is installed and lower entrance switched to the
    rear to let drones out and push lower bees into
    upper box to simulate pre swarm crowded conditions.

    Google Sue Cobey, Cloake Board
     
  8. tecumseh

    tecumseh New Member

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    I am having a lot of problem posting here... not certain of the reason. Sometime comment appear to post and then they mysteriously disappear.

    Crofter I have never seen a Cloake Board use that was anything besides a two story doubles. The folks I have seen employ this use a set of bottom board and trigger entrances in the cloake board to throw the field population into the top box to crowd just ahead of placing the grafted cells there. All the beekeeper I know who use this system do so with the state advantage that the starter hive is the finishing hive... there is no transfer of cells.

    My own starter hive looks a bit like your set up in post #5. the extra space to allow for a lot of bees cluster to the bottom of the frames is much more important than most folks might think. A slatted rack should accomplish pretty much the same thing.
     
  9. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    I made another Cloake board with moveable entrances but felt they would not be large enough. I am a little worried about swarming this hive! This setup will leave 3/8" X full width of hive opening. This queen has been through 2 winters now and I want her genetics.
    I want to have options to either let this hive start and cap cells or could pull the cells out for finishing in another hive. The first round I only need 4 to 6 queens as I dont want to have to make many further splits for queen mating nucs. Really it will be a test run.
     
  10. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    Well my plans just got changed a bit! I found a nice big fully capped queen cell hanging out the bottom of a frame on the hive I was going to manipulate with the Cloake board. There is still eggs and young brood so I dont think they swarmed. I decided to pull a 5 frame split with the queen cell and didnt worry too much about accidently getting the queen on the frames I pulled. Will check in four days to see if there is still a laying queen in the main hive. If not is she in the nuc? If so maybe put the cell back in the main hive if it has not hatched.

    Every event has so many possible causes, results, and possibilities, it is no wonder beekeepers are such a crazy lot!:lol: I guess I should just speak for myself.:wink:
     
  11. tecumseh

    tecumseh New Member

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    A lot of time Crofter if you simply toss on a queen excluder in multi story stuff you will discover not so long afterwards one or sometimes two cells in that portion of the hive which no longer has the queen. Please understand that this method of creating one or two cells is fairly random so it is not a really a predictable method of creating queen cells.
     
  12. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    Checked today and cell is open. The maddening thing is it is not classic tip of cell peeled back; rather a hole off the bottom about 5 O'clock about like your pinky fingernail.
    Was that done from the outside or is it an inside job? Will have to wait and see. The mother hive has new eggs so they are OK but lots of nectar being put in the brood area. I put on the 4th super.