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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hive.JPG Set up 2 new hives yesterday evening. Have:

Hive stand
Screened bottom board with IPM board installed and entrance reducer set to smallest opening
Med super
Hive top feeder
Inner cover with slot in edge of cover up and to the rear
Tele top pulled forward to cover the slot in the inner cover

Light, spotty, rain today. The bees are crowded around the entrance and climbing the exterior of the hive.

Seems to me the only way in and out of the hive for bees or ventilation is the small reducer hole.

Does this sound correct, and will there be enough ventilation when it hits 82 degrees Monday?
 

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for ventilation purposes, larger the entrance the better, for security purposes smaller the better, compromise use the medium entrance unless truly warm arrives, and colony strength is sufficient open the entrance fully as hot weather get here upper entrances. IPM Board why use unless your counting mites which you should not have to worry about just yet, take advantage of the screened bottom board to allow bee debris to fall through to the ground rather then be collected by you ( and SHB ). Inner covers slot? is there a notch in the rim of the inner cover most times you have to make--that would be the upper entrance I mentioned above not needed yet. just turn the inner cover over making the notch uselessly leading to space under hive cover. Bees are a life long learning process, and anyone that says they know everything about bees is someone you should run not walk away from.:lol:
Barry
 

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Pulling the IPM board out will not do much for you since your hive is sitting on a solid table top. For the SBB to work it needs to be open at the bottom so the mites and debris can fall to the ground. With the IPM board in place below the screen it is a good place for SHB and wax moth the get a foot hold.
 

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To tag on to what G3farms said, propping the hive stand up off the solid table top would also let air flow below the hive stand and up through the SBB into your hive, which I think would improve ventilation quite a bit.
 

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Actually just really noticed that your colony is on a hive stand, were it me, I might be inclined to take a drill with a hole saw say 1/2 inch and drill out a few say 3 on each side 2 across the back that would be a permanent fix and vastly improve the ventilation I still would remove the IPM board for the moment as again not really looking for anything aside from hive debris, for the moment. a few patches of screening on the inside of the hive stand outside if ascetics are not a concern, to keep out bugs.
Barry
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for all of your inputs. Have removed the IPM boards. The hives are sitting on stands and the stands sit on loose stacked 4x4's.
Plan to slide out the center 4x4's this evening to allow better ventilation and debris drop.

I have a better understanding of the process thanks to you're explanations

I have a tip for other newbees: Make sure you close the zippers on your hood to jacket joint. Heh,heh, personal experience with that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Removed the center 4x4's yesterday afternoon.

Everyone seems to be happy now.

Thanks for the help.
 

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I would suggest that what appears to be wolmanized wood is not the best of ideas. experience some years ago suggested to me that wolmanized wood will put off low levels of gas when wet. the gas itself is not enough to kill a hive but may well negative impact a hives growth rate.

one or two boards I would think should represent little problem but a solid floor of the stuff I myself would avoid.
 

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Not real crazy about your feeders but thats just me. Also I put a small (3/4x3/4x3inch)stick/board on the front edge of my inner cover and rest the front edge of the Tele. cover on it for summer ventilation, in fact I left them that way all winter.
 

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New hives don't need ventilation. They are too weak to defend themselves from robbers. Close the hive down to just a 1 in. entrance until they get settled and have new bees emerging.
 
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