There's been some good advice given and tec just gave some more. Do be aware that costs can add up rather quickly. Things that I as a rank(I haven't showered yet this morning) newbie) figure a person has gotta have....
WARNING!!!!! RANK NEWBIE GIVING ADVICE!!!!!!!!!
Protective clothing:
Veil/Jacket - I've got a nice jacket, but as of yet I haven't worn it to the bee yard. I'll probably use it if/when I do a cut-out. I have been using a "Clear Vue" veil and a white straw(?) helmet with a heavy longsleeved white shirt. I may have to change the heavy shirt for a lighter one this summer as things warm up but I'm not sure how that'll work when I start sweating and a thinner shirt sticks to me. Another option that people take is buying a tyvek painter's suit...cheap at hardware stores but hot.
Gloves - I have some but haven't used them. The first time I observed my mentor going into a hive he did not wear gloves. The bees crawled on his hands some...no big deal but it impressed me greatly. He did end up getting a couple of stings and I ended up getting my first one on the arm. He never reacted from his sting that I noticed and I found the sting was over and done with quickly so no big deal for me (though it got my attention when it happened and did itch for about 3 days). What I saw in my mentor was a slow, deliberate moving of the hands. If the bees seemed to get agitated he would pause for a moment and let them settle a bit. It was almost like watching a surgeon operate. The stings we got were when a frame hung on another one and lifted the other frame up about an inch out of the box and dropped it back onto the rabbet. Since then I've had a hive at the house since December and have been into it numerous times along with my two new hives....only one or two stings during that time and I haven't worn any gloves (I may get lit up any day now, but it will be by accident for sure! ;0)
Misc. "Apparell" - Keep some ducktape handy to seal up cracks and gaps in your clothing. You can use it to seal your pants legs (I've never done this but if the bees seemed "mad" or I saw a lot on the ground crawling around I'd back up and do it in a heartbeat!). It can also seal between "pruning gloves" and sleeves. Good for sealing tears in veils, too.
Color - WHITE. It seems that beekeeping clothing is mostly colored white for a reason...they seem not to be aggressively attracted to it, though I do have them hover around looking at it...just as they do a new hive box. White is also cooler. I've see mention where folks have bees apparently stinging them on the ankles...I'm wondering how many of these are wearing brown/black boots or shoes. I've got an old pair of black boots that I'm seriously considering painting with the paint that I'm painting my hive boxes with...might be hot, though, so may opt for white shoe polish.
Equipment:
Smoker - Get a good one. Ask around here, at your bee club meetings, etc., for recommendations. I've seen some good ones go for cheap on eBay and see some crappy ones go for way too much when none-bee folks think they're buying "antiques" to set on a shelf.:roll:
I kinda like the cone-topped ones better than the round topped ones but I'm sure there are people who like the opposite of what I do. One with a guard around it is very nice to keep from bumping into and burning things...like your fingers. Some have plastic bellows some have heavier duty bellows made of leather or other material...I'd shy away from plastic. If I'm removing the inner cover I always want some smoke handy. If I'm just puttering around or maybe putting a mason jar feeder on top of the inner cover I don't worry with the smoker or veil.
Smoker Fuel - Pine straw is excellent, easily lit, it makes a thick smoke and stays burning with little trouble, and in your area you should be able to get all you need for FREE. The downside is that it does have a strong smell. I've also used some "punky"/semi-rotted hardwood in my smoker...it works pretty good but you need to be sure it's dried well. Old burlap is something else I've heard people using....be sure there is nothing toxic about it. Some people swear by wood pellets...they cost and so far I haven't been impressed with the ones that I've used.
Hive Tool - Go ahead and get a hive tool from a bee supplier. I had a regular pry-bar/nail-puller that I thought I'd just keep laying around the bee yard but after looking at it it is close to twice as thick as my regular hive tools and the edge isn't nearly as thin or sharp for getting between pieces of equipment to pry them apart. The edge on the nail puller could be ground down a bit but a regular hive tool isn't too expensive. I did buy one that has a "hook" on the end that makes pulling/prying up frames a lot easier. Screwdrivers will work but will damage the box edges worse than the broader tip of a hive tool will.
Feeders - Ziplock bags and mason jars. Just about as cheap as you can get. You'll need to search on how to use these as there are a couple of ways to do it.
Woodenware:
Basically this will be something that you will research and decide on yourself. Whether you're going to use 8-frame or 10-frame equipment. Whether you're going to use deeps and mediums or all the same size equipment. If you can, now is the best time to make these decisions so as not to find out you have some equipment that later you don't really want to use.
Boxes - Unless you're handy with woodworking, have the equipment, and can get some really cheap wood it's about as cost effective to buy your boxes pre-cut. The "commercial" grade is usually good.
Bottoms and tops - These *can* be built with skilsaws and other hand tools if you have the time and inclination...and some money can be saved building them. Whether it's enough to warrant making them yourself or not is debatable but you can build them like you want them. If buying tops then migratory tops will save you *several* dollars over telescoping tops and their accompanying inner covers. Many folks use a piece of plywood for their top. Paint is your friend with plywood...seal the edges well. Screened bottom boards appear to work very well in the deep south.
Frames - The only way to save money here is to buy them in bulk. Look at the different offerings and figure out what type of foundation (or no foundation) you are going to use so that you purchase the correct frames. Nail and glue them well.
Glue - Folks have their favorites. Mine is Titebond III. Don't buy anything less than a quart...you *will* use it. I bought a quart to start with and then a gallon. I use the original quart bottle as my dispenser. I've been through a half gallon since I've been working on 18 mediums and associated woodenware for six hives and several swarm traps. I use lots of glue.
Nails - I know that Rossman ships their woodenware with nails...I'm not sure about other vendors (ask them). #7 box nails (thin shank) is what normally is used on boxes....#4 of the same type is used on some tops and bottoms....then you have the thin wire nails for the frames.
Harvesting your honey can be as simple as a five gallon bucket, some old nylon stockings, and crush and strain. Or, your bee club's extractor.
Old pallets and construction sites are good sources of free wood and even metal sheeting.
Oh well, I know I missed a whole lot, but somethings you'll just have to cough the dough up for but somethings you can improvise on. If you find a beekeeper that is cutting back on the number of hives he/she is keeping you might be able to pick some items up rather cheaply, especially in woodenware. But, be aware that with any used woodenware there's always a chance of disease.
Best wishes,
Ed