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Discussion in 'Building plans, blueprints, and finished projects' started by jb63, Feb 9, 2013.
I used these frames last year and I had 100% success with them, and it was easy on the bees.
The vac. part is a copy of a bushkill, the variation is a queen cage frame and a trap door on the inner cover.I haven't tested it yet but what I want to do is order some early queens suck up a pound of bees and drop the queen cage in. Sense I have drawn comb and capped honey I think it will work.
jb63, we must be on the same thought train, i just made up 10 more of those frames. Getting ready for some of Larry Tates queens coming in April. Are you going to take the nucs to another out yard (5 miles away) and leave them a day before putting the queen cage in? or put the queen in with the bees the same day? Just wondering,and good luck. keep us posted, Jack
My plan is to put the queen in the same day then in my barn for three days.Then run them up the hill 5 mi.to my in laws.
I really like those queen introduction frames. :thumbsup:
My question is, what do you do with them after the queen is released? Do you just remove the cage, or pull and replace the whole frame? It seems like maybe it's tying up a good frame of comb. Do you just replace the cage with a block of wood to prevent burr comb?
Myself, if they have brood in them i keep moving them to the outside frames until they are free of brood, then remove.Or put them above an excluder till brood is gone.Sometimes i just leave them and take them out in the fall to reuse next spring, the small patch of burr comb doesn't pose a problem,it's either honey or drone brood.With the frame in the middle they will work it heavy,but if it has foundation in it and drawn comb on each side of it, the new queen will start laying in them and you can remove it before they get it drawn out.Jack
I used them making spring nucs. where I robbed two frames of brood and I had capped honey that I saved from dead outs.After the queen released I pulled the frame and put in a frame of drawn comb.These inner covers should work good.[video=youtube_share;QYSzL_tygVk]http://youtu.be/QYSzL_tygVk[/video]
I need to make one of those NUC sized vacuums. I might even try one of those frames. It would allow this curious beekeeper easy access, and two or three full days of entertainment.
You got it Lee, curious and entertainment and may I add easily amused.It doesn't take much.
I put in a order with Dansk farms today for four of their buckfast queens.Now all I have to do is wait till April 9.Yikes that's fifty seven days, it seems like a long time but it's less than two months.
Good idea on the henged clear door jb63, i never would of thought of that.:thumbsup: Jack
Great minds think alike I have five queens on order with Joe at Dansk farms, I found him cordial and helpful, not to mention flexible to my needs.
I was driving home from work tonight,when my wife called.She said my bees were here, meaning the queens were here.I was kind of expecting them tomorrow.The sun was still out so I hurried home.I made up four nucs and by the time I had the last one done it was dusk.They have two frames of honey on the outsides,two frames of brood and one frame that is the Brooks queen cage frame.With the trap doors on the inner cover I was able to add the queens in the barn an hour after dark.It worked well I was able to move the bees with light smoke through the holes drilled in the trap door.
Thx also to Dansk farms for the Queens
great photos jb! i really like your inner covers on those nucs......do you have a building plan for those?
Sorry I didn't respond River, the plans are the pictures.The door needs to be big enough to get your fingers and a queen cage in.The holes are important to be able to smoke the bees down if you want to remove the cage or release the queen early.I also figured out that the screen and the recess on the pint jar is longer than the bee tongue, so I cut out a circle piece of sham-wow towel and set it on top of the vent screen then the feeder jar.It seemed to work well.They stayed in the barn for 3 days,then outside.After a week I removed the introduction frame from the center and added another frame of brood.I also made some med. nuc bottomless boxes so I could leave the jar feeders on. Here's the last four I did.
Just an off the wall thought here.....................
Since heat rises and there is a natural air flow through the hive via the front entrance up and out the top hinged cover that has holes drilled in it, seems to me like it is carrying off some of the queens pheromones. If the queen cage was put in the entrance her pheromones would naturally be carried through out the hive.
Still don't understand or quite comprehend the need for the queen cage "frame", other than a quick and easy place to put the queen cage, be able to monitor and remove it (well I guess that answered that question HUH). Many years ago I had built a shim that had a screen tunnel and trap door in it to introduce queens. Never did play with it to see if it worked or not, the trap door had me a little worried about squishing a queen. Will dig it out of the rafters and snap a pic.