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I like the PJ's. Is that some special material that is sting resistant? As for the fogger I have a big one I used for disinfecting with an oxy substance, it is a rather expensive machine. it has been a while since I used it but I found the citric acid activating chrystals . Bet I could switch it over easy.
 

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I wonder if you could go to the auto junkyard and pick up a cigarette lighter. Mount that upright on a handle and hook it up with 12 ga. wiring. Put a scoop of oxalic acid in the lighter and connect it to a battery.

I think I'll try that out ...
 

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I wonder if you could go to the auto junkyard and pick up a cigarette lighter. Mount that upright on a handle and hook it up with 12 ga. wiring. Put a scoop of oxalic acid in the lighter and connect it to a battery.

I think I'll try that out ...
I tried this lighter system but have to take out one frame from hive.


Any idea about making
Please let me know

Sent from my A52 using Tapatalk 2
 

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That's a good point. Getting a charge of oxalic acid in the vaporizor and getting in the entrance would be difficult. That's probably why the Bee Man's product lays flat.
 

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Does anyone have experience with Oxalic Acid and if it actually works?

I just did a bit of homework. Check mite says to use 1 strip per 5 frames at the cost of $2 per strip. That is $8 per hove for me. With three hives that is $24 just to be playing with bees. According to fatman a bottle of oxalic acid costs $15.00 and will treat maybe 400 hives. But I need a $175 heating wand. At my present hive numbers I will have to treat all my hives for 7 years to break even. But I don't plan to stay at my present numbers. So the real truth is I only need to treat 42 deep bodies to break even. For any other small timers liking this system. Here is a suggestion on how you might be able to make it worthwhile. Use your system to offer treatment for the hives of other small timers. If it costs them $4 to $10 per deep to treat for mights with strips. Offer to vaporize them for say half that price. 100 hives later or so you have recouped your money.

But even better!!! how about avoiding that $175 cost entirely? If you are the DIY type. Which I assume anyone willing to mess with bees to get honey falls well into the DIY'er category. I did a bit more snooping. And came up with this.
http://www.drobbins.net/bee's/oa_evaporator/
For those with no machine shop there is also this.
http://beenaturalguy.com/legacy-beekeeping/oxalic-acid-evaporator/
in short all you need is something that gets hot (about 300 degrees F) and gets the vapor into the bottom box. In this case a few pieces of copper or brass pipe. I personally like the glow plug idea and think it woudl be worth getting a little block of aluminum machined for. Otherwise I could make the whole thing in my wood shop. I am also looking at the little aluminum tray and saying "Hey it does not have to be a nice squared out tray". it could just be a round hole in a block of aluminum or brass. Nice fat drill bit of the right size and machining it would be very simple. Just thinking out loud here.

So lets say you can get one made for even $50 and then get a $15.00 bottle of powder. $65 and you have cut the cost to less than half. And that is if you are still going to pay someone to do some of the work. As is it is fairly well cost effective for someone with around 20 to 25 hives. and with a little more work than money it becomes even more cost effective for those with even fewer hives. Say in the 10 or so range.

The heat shield also does not need to be as large as they show it in the first link. It only needs to insulate the heated tray from the surrounding surfaces.

As for how to make the thing blow. That might take some experimenting to get right but is not impossible.
 

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He He Efmasch. I got interrupted during my writing to go watch the video and verify the number of doses he claimed where in that bottle. I edited the original post.
What is the world coming to when you have to pay two nickels for a dime item.
 

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Just want you to know, I wasn't laughing AT you. We all let briliant statements slip out from time to time.
I really enjoyed your cost analysis. Good thinking and planning. :thumbsup:
 

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Hello folks, I have gotten on this project and found another discussion about it on another forum. Thought you all might be interested in some alternative ideas.

First the go to solution for the heating element seems to be a Glow Plug, Since not all glow plugs are created the same I have at least two that are suitable for direct connection to a 12 V battery.
Autolite 1104
Champion CH69

From their the discussion turned to just what sort of metal to install this plug into.
In a nut shell. some metals will give off gases when heated such as galvanized steel.
Others may give off gases due to being exposed to the acid.

Without repeating the entire conversations I will just say the approved metals that resulted from that topic are Aluminum and Stainless Steel.

Stainless steel may sound like overkill but due to current copper prices it actually comes out considerable less expensive than copper fittings.

As of this moment I am toying with two designs. One that requires machining and drilling ability and one that does not.
SO far teh bill fo goods for teh off teh shelf screw it together is looking like this

Glow Plug approx. $10.00
Section of 1 inch or slightly larger Aluminum Rod. Price not known as I already had this on hand.
1 reducer for the size aluminum rod you have to a 3/4 inch F NPT 45 degree Elbow. Cost of adaptor not known at this time.

1 - Stainless Steel 3/4 inch threaded NPT 45 degree elbow. I found this online for 5.98 (note a copper slip 45 degree elbow was priced from two sources yesterday at over $6)

1- Stainless Steel 3/4 inch threaded NPT nipple 3.03.

1 - Steel (not stainless) threaded flange for 3/4 inch pipe. 3.03

1 - M12 X 1.25 tap, approx $6. ( for making threads in aluminum rod so glow plug can be screwed in) this can be skipped if you want to just drill a 1/2 inch hole and fasten the glow plug in with a set screw or even glue it in. Some reports say a single glow plug lasts for years. It may be easier to just glue a glow plug in and just remake a whole new combustion chamber when the glow plug burns out.

Teh down and dirty but probably not detailed enough.

drill one end of the Aluminum rod to fit the glow plug in. drill the other end for a pocket that will hold the Acid. leave about 1/4 to 3/8 inch of material between the two holes so the glow plug is not in direct contact with the acid. Rod will then slip fit via a connector to the other components.

So now you are all wondering how this all fits through the entrance of the hive, Right? It doesn't it fits on to a shallow box that is placed on top of the hive to vaporize.

I am also brewing on another idea that only requires a section of 2 inch aluminum rod. A simple as I can describe it is a smoking pipe where the stem is the glow plug and the bowl is where the acid is placed. There is some discussion about whether the glow plug can be in direct contact with the acid. If it turns out so this design may be changed to have the glow plug actually penetrate directly into the bowl. This rod would then be set up so that it slides out through the side of the box like a drawer. allowing the bowl to be reloaded with acid then pushed back in and the power applied so the acid is vaporized inside the hive. A window was put in the box shown in the thread so that vaporization can actually be observed.

Anyway most of you are probably already aware of that other conversation, but I thought I would carry the information to this group as well since it was brought up here also.

It is still a project in the works so additional ideas or information is always welcome.
 

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Sometimes we get so absorbed in ourselves that we forget there are others out there in cyberspace. Thanks for the reminder.
 
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