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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trap out setup

I like to make a scouting trip to the trap out location and prepare
the area prior to setting the trap. I will use lumber, plastic,
silicone caulk, whatever will work, to reduce their entrance down to
one hole of approx. 2 inches, or 2 inches X not more than 3/4 inch, if
the opening is in a corner. After choosing or making the cone, I will
measure from the ground to the bottom of the cone. Then I can plan on
what I will use for the platform. This one had an initial entrance of 12 in. X 3 feet of rotted away wood. I crammed towels, burlap, and 2 cans of great stuff in it. Bees will eat through great stuff, if it is more than 3/8 in thick, or doesn't have a hard substance between layers of it.






On the day of the setup, I will remove a frame of brood, WITH EGGS,
from my chosen hive, and place it in a warm, shaded area, like the cab
of my truck. On site, I set the platform, level from side to side,
tilted slightly to the front. I then set the catch box where the
"porch" area can be slid against the plywood cone mount, an inch or
two below the bottom of the wire cone.I want the bees to walk from the
cone mount to the box, not fly. Next, I place the frame of brood in
the catch box, with one empty frame between it and the side of the box
next to the structure.I mark and predrill 4 holes in the cone mount in
a position needed to secure the mount and cone to the structure, over
the colony entrance. I run a circle of silicone caulk around the hole
in the cone mount, so it will compress and seal when I mount it to the
wall. If it cannot be mounted with screws, I will hold or prop it
tightly to let the silicone caulk dry enough to hold it in place.

If it is in a corner, I will tack 3/8 to 1/2 in. thick strips to the
bottom of the mount, on 2 or 3 sides, as needed, to allow the bees to
exit under the mount and into the cone. If the strips are used on a
corner trap, I will put the silicone on the strips. Next, I will run a
bead of silicone caulk around the outer edge of the mount to ensure a
solid seal.





At this time, I will stay in the area for 1 to 3 hours, talking to the
homeowner, showing them the bees are docile by putting my fingers
right up to them as they land at the base of the cone. "a returning
forager looking for the entrance will not sting". Doing my PR on all
honey bees, and looking for alternative entrances. If you can keep
them from finding another entrance for 48 hours, they doubtfully ever
will. If they do find one, you will find it is nearly impossible to
keep them from finding them from then on. The trapout will either be
greatly prolonged, or totally unfeasible to do. It is extremely
important to close all entrances the first time. I also instruct the
owner on what to look out for, depending on how comfortable he or she
is with the bees and to call me when they see certain signs. I return the next day for a 10 to 15 minute check, and if everything
is OK, I plan my next visit for one week later.


The position of the exit in the cone has no bearing on the trapout, as
we aren't catching the bees as they leave, but rather when they return
from the field, loaded with pollen and/or nectar. They will return to
the base of the cone, where they have always entered.
The relationship of the base of the cone to the entrance where the
brood frame sits is the detail you need to be conscious of, not the
exit.
 

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Thank you very much for the time and effort to make these posts. I am getting ready for a couple tree trap outs. Tom
 

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I got to one of the trees today and found this...

Bees at 607 N Bellevue Hasiings (3).jpg

The hole is about 14 feet up and about 24 inches across. There is some comb in the left and center of the hole...

Bees at 607 N Bellevue Hasiings (2).jpg

Bees at 607 N Bellevue Hasiings (1).jpg The bees were using the top center piece of comb for an entrance for the most part. I did see some bees going into the left 2 pieces of comb area.
It appears to the top center is the main entrance. Not sure how far up the hollow goes but the branch has signs of rotting through out. Several large limbs have been taken off in the past. The home owner has a tree man to take the tree down but he won't touch it with the bees there. I offered to work for him taking down that limb if he supplies the lift truck and equipment. I will offer to help him take the rest of the tree down for a fee. The home owner did agree to let me try a trap out before calling the tree guy. What do you bee keeps think of this overall? Tom
 

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1/4" plywood and drywall screws with a fender washer will pull down to cover a LOT of undulation in the mounting surface. Cut off any big knobs or high spots if possible. LOTS of silicone caulk.

IMG_0909.JPG
 

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well got there and the ladder was not near long enough, even extended to it's fullest, 16 ft.... she said she had one that would reach so I put it up and it was 4 shorter then mine. At any point she was out of town yesterday so will have to contact her later today. Looks like the tree guy will be the best option. I did stop at the second place and got it set up...That one was interesting also...did not have any fender washers etc so used some door screen and silicone calking. Will check it in a couple days and see how it is going if at all. The limb is big and cracking just hope I got everything sealed off. I stayed around for about an hour did not see them getting in anywhere. But like we all know if the can they will...lol Tom
 

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Had a chance to stop by on my way home today and check on the trap out...NO LUCK...looks like they have found a way in...two of the entries were good one not so much. here are a couple pictures....looks like I will need to stop by with another tube of silicone. Tom

DSC00412.jpg

DSC00413.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Your entrance is too far from their tree entrance. Raise the 2X4's until the entrance is level with the bottom of the cone. Then turn the box as far toward the tree as possible.

PS. That looks like a nuc rather than a 10 frame box. If so, WHY??
 

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Your entrance is too far from their tree entrance. Raise the 2X4's until the entrance is level with the bottom of the cone. Then turn the box as far toward the tree as possible.

PS. That looks like a nuc rather than a 10 frame box. If so, WHY??
If i raise the 2x4 the 10 frame would fit....I used the nuc box just because that is what I had in the truck that day. I will take a ten frame box and put it up...thanks for the help. Tom
 

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Ok went back yesterday with the 10 frame box. The bees had made new access points where the limb is breaking. Sealed them up, put some extra staples in the screen. Raised the 2x4 to accommodate the bigger box. That placed it slightly above the cone. The field bees were returning and could not find any of the old access points. A couple of them were fanning at the entrance to the box. I will check them again today on my way home from work to see how it is going. Although my earlier swarm capture is doing ok I do not really want to take any brood away from them at this point. I am trying to get enough of the tree bees to start another colony...Thoughts???comments ?? Tom
 

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Thanks really hope so. Will take the camera and get a couple pictures today of the current setup...I realize I am not giving them brood to take care of but hoping that giving them a dry home will do it. If I HAVE to take a partial frame of brood I will. Just did not want to put the swarm colony in jeopardy. Getting to close to winter. Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You will have to make a choice. Either add eggs, or buy a queen. An empty box will not work.
 

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What is the minimum number of brood frames I would have to use? Tom
 

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One.

But make sure it has eggs on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Minimum? A 2 inch square of comb containing eggs, cut out and placed into a frame of drawn comb.
 

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Ok went to town today and put in a frame of eggs and capped brood. Sprayed a little sugar water on the opening to help draw some of the bees ...

Ten frame box in place. One frame of eggs and brood added today.

DSC00433.jpg

Closer look, the cone is under the box.
DSC00434.jpg

a better look at the cone area
DSC00437.jpg

A look from the south side.

DSC00436.jpg

This show the impromptu closing of the back side.

DSC00435.jpg

Before leaving today I put silicone caulking from the impromptu area all the way down the break pictured in the last picture. also caulked around the cone just to make sure. Will be checking the box again around 3 or 4 August to see if any queen cells are present (thank You Iddee) IF the swarm bees have sufficient eggs I will take another frame when I check just in case.

Many thanks to you all and especially Iddee for his time. Tom
 

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Did a check of the box and surrounding area and the box had two solid frames of bees the start of three queen cells. There were still a lot of bees on the cone but I could not see if or where they were getting back into the tree. When I opened the box the bees came out in force to protect it. I am thinking of taking the bee vac in next time and getting as many bees as I can and bring them back to a new box with brood and eggs. Also taking another frame of brood and eggs into the trap out. I say this as when I got home I checked the feed on my swarm catch and refilled their internal feeder. While there I checked the bottom two deeps and on the top box found the queen. The bottom box was full of bees. The top box had all but two frames completely full of new comb and a lot of honey and brood. So I feel better about taking a frame of eggs and brood. Thoughts on this plan?? Tom
 
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