Start of the 2nd year question.

Discussion in 'Beekeeping 101' started by Yankee11, Jan 13, 2013.

  1. Yankee11

    Yankee11 New Member

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    All my hives are only 1 deep and a medium right now.

    I want to go to 2 deeps for brood on all my hives. As the spring starts up. Whats the best way to achieve this.
    Remove the medium and sit the empty deep on top of the existing deep? Put the empty deep on the bottom?
    The second deep will be frames with foundation. Checker board the drawn frames with frames of foundation?

    And, if there is still capped frames of honey in the mediums, do I set the medium on top of both deeps? I am thinking I want to force them to fill out both deeps before adding a supers.

    Extract the capped frames, if any?
     
  2. Zookeep

    Zookeep Active Member

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    if the queen and all the broods in the 1 deep ad the other deep on top of it and move 1 or 2 frames up into the center of it and put the 2 frames with foundation toward the middle of the lower deep with a pulled frame between the 2, then put the med super ontop with a queen excluder below it, you dont want to remove food from the hive in early spring cause they are building up fast and need alot.
     

  3. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    Set the empty deep on the bottom board and the full deep and medium on top of that. Harvest the super when full.
     
  4. Zookeep

    Zookeep Active Member

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    thought it was spring when you move the brood and queen down to the bottom
     
  5. pistolpete

    pistolpete New Member

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    I'm no wiser than you, but it seems to me, how you will proceed will depend largely on what you find in your spring inspection. If the brood nest is primarily in the medium on top (which it likely will be), then you have little choice but to move that to the bottom and place the deep on top of that and then another deep. The brood nest will tend to migrate up until the hive starts to get honey bound and the queen starts getting pushed back down. If you time it right you can move the medium super from bottom to top as soon as the bulk of the brood nest is out of it.

    If you open things up and find that perhaps only the upper edge of the brood extends into the medium super, then you can insert an deep between the two.
     
  6. Yankee11

    Yankee11 New Member

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    So I guess most of you use queen excluders? I am fixing to place an order and may need to get some if that's the case.
     
  7. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    My approach would be a little different than most. Instead of trying to stop the queen from laying in the medium for now, let her and add the deep later as a means of swarm control. in the end the bees will have 2 deep brood boxes to head into winter and the manipulation will occur in the bees natural building period.


    Don’t be in to big of a hurry to remove the medium super brood box wait till the queen is laying good in both boxes and you have lots of brood in the hive and that with the emergence of the brood that is capped over the following 9 days, the hive population will dramatically increase. which should be about 1/4 to 1/2 way threw dandelions bloom, then pull the med and set aside pull two good brood frames up out of the bottom brood box and place them in the new deep in positions 5 and 7 and put the foundation in positions 4 and 6 in the bottom super. Place the 2nd deep followed by the medium. Use no queen excluder don’t bother finding the queen. You have just preformed your swarm control. the bees will use the nectar coming in to build out the combs as the brood emerges in the top medium the bees will fill it with honey and will force the queen down into the newly drawn comb if she was in the top super
     
  8. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    Ask 10 beeks a question and then pick the best of the 15 answers that will work best for you. :lol:
    Queen excluders are more of a personal choice and depending on the style of the beek. I don't use them until I catch brood being raised in my honey supers and then on they go.
    Many beeks will manage their hives to develop a honey barrier naturally and don't need to use one.
     
  9. tecumseh

    tecumseh New Member

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    an Iddee snip..
    Set the empty deep on the bottom board and the full deep and medium on top of that. Harvest the super when full.

    tecumseh...
    first off I do NOT suggest checkerboarding since I have 'heard' of the ugly side effects from this and although I use excluder I try not to do so when I am using full boxes of foundation. the simple approach is to do what Iddee suggest above without the excluder (I myself would not use an excluder on a hive with this configuration).
     
  10. efmesch

    efmesch Active Member

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    Maybe I missed it in reading throgh all the posts, but I don't seem to have seen anyone writing about the timing factor. Maybe it's so obvious to everyone that they didn't say it. But just in casse, I'll risk repeating it: Don't add that super (whichever of the 15 recommendations you decide upon :roll: ) until you see that a good flow has begun. You want those new frames drawn out quickly, without a pause in construction. When the bees have a lot of nectar coming in, they'll not only build fast, but the combs will also be well constructed.
     
  11. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    Good point on timing Efmesch In post 7, It stated in the dandelion flow with also a population that will support covering and building the new comb. Iddee method is not that different than mine both allow the bees to back fill the top super as the brood emerges. the way Lddee suggests can be done earlier cause you are not spiting the brood but keep in mind Efmesh comment of the bees building comb better during a flow. The reason I prefer splitting the brood is it forces the bees to build the comb to fill in the gap in the brood nest, even it the nectar flow is slow. but remember any time you split the brood nest you need to have enough bees to keep the expanded space heated.
    Ignore post 8 There was no useful information in there! Although he makes a good point about the natural honey barrier as an effective queen excluder. OK we will give him 1/2 pint for that post, Iddee can you change Perry's post count down 1/2? ....Posts___________4146 1/2 what Perry said is true there are many ways to tackle the situation now the choice is yours and use what ever suggested way that fits into your method of beekeeping.
     
  12. Slowmodem

    Slowmodem New Member

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    ROFL!!! :lol::rolling::clapping:
     
  13. efmesch

    efmesch Active Member

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    I hope that half pint is MEAD. :lol: