TBH Russian pics

Discussion in 'Top Bar & other Alternative Hives' started by melrose, Jul 25, 2013.

  1. melrose

    melrose New Member

    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    IMG_3543.jpg IMG_3546.jpg IMG_3547.jpg IMG_3548.jpg

    I finally removed the feeder from our TBH. These guys have not stopped feeding since we put them in.
    If you look closely at the 2nd and 3rd pic, you'll notice that it looks like the comb is tied together. I haven't been abled to stop this from happening. Every time I pull a bar, wax tears apart and creates a mess. The weight of the bees on the wax, and the warm weather aren't conducive to clean inspections so I didn't pull any bars during this inspection. I did open one more entry hole to give them better access to bars not filled yet and hopefully increase flow of bees coming and going.
     
  2. TreeWinder

    TreeWinder New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Solid topbars 1 3/8" or 1 1/2" would be better, never seen one like that
     

  3. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

    Messages:
    5,829
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    "Something Bear Apiary" :shock: :???:
    Bad Mojo maybe? :lol:
     
  4. melrose

    melrose New Member

    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    These are solid bars, two diff sizes, one for brood and stores, the larger behinf the excluder for honey.

    thnx
     
  5. melrose

    melrose New Member

    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Wife calls our little boy (my helper) her little "boogie bear", hence the name. :grin:
     
  6. TreeWinder

    TreeWinder New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Looking at your pictures. As long as your top bars are not solid across the top, those bees are going to build and propolise between them open gaps and look at your cover, they are building comb on that also. Bees should not have access above the topbars.
     
  7. melrose

    melrose New Member

    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Aahhhh, I see what you mean by solid. I gave them gaps in hopes that they wouldn't build that way. I did give them the same space on top as with the Langs hives... Maybe I'll make a 'filler' board to place on top of the bars, but I'm late on the bar issue I think, maybe I can cut out a bunch for the rest of the hive.

    thanks for the info
     
  8. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

    Messages:
    2,060
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    36
    An excluder is not needed as the queen most times will not cross frames of honey to lay in newly drawn open comb. the bees will move honey out of the brood area to allow the queen to lay. An excluder fashioned and placed between the brood end and the honey storage could cause the bees to be reluctant to travel thru to store honey thus causing the bees to store more in the brood area. As well as I agree with TreeWinder, In nature bees attach the comb to a flat surface and then work down and over expanding the hive size. They don't go up over the top of the comb.
     
  9. melrose

    melrose New Member

    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    It's just burr comb, nothing serious...
     
  10. TreeWinder

    TreeWinder New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Melrose, this is what I meant with solid top bars. I made this TBH on Saturday. DSCF1835.jpg
     
  11. melrose

    melrose New Member

    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I have seen them this way... do you have top and bottom entrances or are those vent holes? It's prob too late for me to change out the bars that I have in there. :???:
     
  12. TreeWinder

    TreeWinder New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Main entrance is right at the landing board (hard to see in pic). The 1" holes in front serve as both entrance and ventilation, 3 of them at top rear. Solid bottom.
    I don't think its too late for you to change, do a few at a time starting at the rear. I'd do it so as not to tear up your combs every time you pull frames. You'll have hard time evaluating condition without.
    If you need some solid boards, give me your width and I can make some this weekend and send up to you if you don't have a woodshop. No charge, just helping out.
     
  13. melrose

    melrose New Member

    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Thank you TreeWinder, I just saw this, I take it that I need to the outside edge? So that the bars sit on top of the box. I'll measure up in the morning. thank you again,

    Jerry
     
  14. TreeWinder

    TreeWinder New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    It looks in your 1st pic that your current bars sit inside on maybe a lip? I would need that width dimension. This way your current cover/roof will work.
     
  15. TreeWinder

    TreeWinder New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Send me a private message with your address, after I get them made up I'll send out.