Tonight's bee club meeting

Discussion in 'General Beekeeping' started by Iddee, Aug 10, 2010.

  1. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    Steve Forrest, owner of Brushy Mountain bee farm put on a very interesting presentation tonight. He spoke on what to do in August, saying it is the most important month concerning the condition of your hives come spring.

    Basically, this is the month for "pushing", feeding sugar and pollen patties to get the brood up for winter. Requeening in time to get 2 to 4 cycles of brood before winter. Checking for mites and disease, and treating before cold weather.

    You can't start in Oct. and prep a hive for winter in this climate. It will be too late.
     
  2. tecumseh

    tecumseh New Member

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    appropriate timing of the various manipulation is very important to beekeeping. fall and springtime perhaps more so than in the summer and winter.

    I think I might agree with Mr Forrest with the critical month here for 'fall preparation' being September. It would be interesting to see what month Al (given his very much northern location) thought was the critical month for preparing hives for the fall.

    in regards to feeding some workable plan to guess-ta-mate (< I do hope Al's grammar police don't call me on that one) total hive weigh and infer from this total stores. At this location I would not think about adding any pollen like product unless I saw little on none in a hive.
     

  3. alleyyooper

    alleyyooper New Member

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    Many here in Michigan as far north as a line drawn across the state thru Houghton Lake, West Branch area are still pulling honey supers off in mid September.
    I myself and others who like to over winter with as few lost colonies as possiable will have our honey supers all pulled in August. We are starting next week. From the first of September on we feed any colonies that appear to be on the low side, but with the Golden Rod and Aster flow normaly in full swing many do fine with out any feeding at this time. We also take note at the September time frame any colonies that are light on workers which may be ones we want to marry with another colony to make a single strong colony.

    I believe what we do is one of the reasons we have a lower winter kill rate than many in the clubs we belong to.

    Does this post meet the approval of the grammer & spelling cop?

    :mrgreen: Al
     
  4. G3farms

    G3farms New Member

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    If you don't write and spell all that good it is fine by me since I can't read all that good it works out in the end. :lol: :lol:
     
  5. rgy

    rgy New Member

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    Hey Aleyooper, I posted this on another site but would appreciate any other input.

    Reading on these other threads about feeding a weak hive so here is my story. I had two terrible nuc's so I requeened one two weeks ago and moved it out to the location of the other weak hive. actually put it in the 2nd hives place and moved the 2nd one over a foot or two to get any foragers in the requeened one. Two days later combined with the newspaper method. Have not been back since that was done on wed the 11th of aug.

    This combo hive is one foot away from my great hive with two supers of honey going.

    Question: if I feed the combo hive will the good hive just rob the sugar water and ruin my honey? I use top feeders but the combo hive is just SO WEAK I don't see them being able to defend themselves, actually I don't think they are going to make it through winter.

    Also when should I start harvesting? we should get the golden rod going before long. I'm southwest michigan on lake michigan. 42.4 parellel.
     
  6. alleyyooper

    alleyyooper New Member

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    With a hive top feeder on top of the weak hive and all entrances closed down except the very bottom one and that only open about a half inch you should be fine. You could also make a robber screen too. I would keep an eye on them for a few days though. You might think about moving the weak hive at least a hive cover away from the strong one also.

    Keep feeding the weak hive right up to very cold day time temp weather. In fact syrup mixed for winter won’t freeze so they could get to it any time the temps got warm enough they got active.

    You can harvest the honey any time the frames are full and 95% capped. Do a shake test, if honey can be shook out wait a bit longer.

    Most people don't care for the strong tasting dark Golden Rod honey. We just let the bees have it for winter food.

    Is this post good enough for the grammar & spelling cop?

    :mrgreen: Al
     
  7. rgy

    rgy New Member

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    shake test? hold frame vertical or horizontal? hard shake?

    i think i will go tomorrow and put the reducer back tot he 1/2 inch. it is currently a little bigger. I should probably do the 2lbs sugar to 1lb water food now, correct?
     
  8. alleyyooper

    alleyyooper New Member

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    Hold the frame horizontal.

    Is this post good enough for the grammar & spelling cop?

    :mrgreen: Al