Trap them out, or leave them alone?

Discussion in 'Swarms, Cut outs, and Trap outs' started by Indiana Dave, Apr 24, 2012.

  1. Indiana Dave

    Indiana Dave New Member

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    I got a call for a hive in a freshly felled tree in a guys yard. When I got there, the log was cut below the hive entrance but had not gotten into the hive itself. The cut top of the log, 4 feet higher, had just gotten into the hive, mostly comb honey. When I showed up, I decided that I would just load up the log and take it to my bee yard and put a lid on top until I figger out what I'm gonna do with them.
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    So my question is, what do you folks think is the best way to get them into a hive? Set it up like a standard trapout? Or put boxes with drawn comb on top of the hive and hope the queen moves up? I am wide open to suggestion.
    Thanks!
     
  2. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    Here's a hint as to what I would do.

    PS. I use hammer and wedges. I don't like the noise of a chainsaw, and neither do the bees.


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  3. Indiana Dave

    Indiana Dave New Member

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    So basically just do a cutout on the log. That should be easy enough. Thank you, sir!!
     
  4. efmesch

    efmesch Active Member

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    The pictures of Iddee's log shows a much thinner wall than what you have. It's going to be mighty tough to open your log with a hammer and chisel. I would suggest setting it up with a floorless hive above the standing log (like in your picture) and slowly smoke them up and out of the log into your hive. Once the queen has gone up (dont let the hive get too smokey, leave room for the smoke to dissipate) and the bees have entered the hive, you can open the log with a chainsaw and make order out of the mess.
     
  5. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    They will not leave the brood with smoke alone. If you go that route, use as many drawn frames as you can. Then turn the log upside down. The cells are slanted a bit upward. The queen will not lay in them if they are slanted down. She will move up to the correct cells in the hive body.
     
  6. BoilerJim

    BoilerJim New Member

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    Thanks Iddee! I never knew that. Very good info to know.:thumbsup:

    Jim
     
  7. blueblood

    blueblood New Member

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    That should split open even though it is thicker...because,the wood appears spalted and softer..
     
  8. efmesch

    efmesch Active Member

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    I (foolishly) forgot about the brood issue. :oops: Follow Iddee's advice.
     
  9. PerryBee

    PerryBee New Member

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    Keep us informed on how you make out with this! :thumbsup:
     
  10. G3farms

    G3farms New Member

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    Now Iddee has used the automatic wedge................

    http://www.beekeepingforums.com/content/119-Log-Removal

    caught in the act :lol::lol:

    This is a tree Crackerbee and myself got last year. Used a chain saw and yep they were pissy to say the least. After cutting out what comb I could they moved up in a big knot. I did smoke them out but it was a real chore, took maybe 30 minutes of hard smoking and there was not any brood comb left in the tree.

    [video=youtube;Idx9VWNCWRY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idx9VWNCWRY[/video]
     
  11. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    Kinda hard to wedge split a forty foot tree. The tree cutter had dropped the tree and left. Yes, I use a saw when needed. You will notice the saw is being used to cross cut, not split. I also wear a veil when needed, but not very often.