Ulster Observation Hive

Discussion in 'Building plans, blueprints, and finished projects' started by Papakeith, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    I'm working on building, and making plans for an Ulster Observation Hive. For the most part I'm going to model it off of the Brushy Mountain version. Anyone have any pointers, or gotchas I should be looking for during the planning stage?
     
  2. blueblood

    blueblood New Member

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    No, but look forward to following you build and possibly doing one also. Are you going to have it so you can view in your yard or on your house? I would love to have one against my house so I could view from inside. I just don't know where I could safely place a hive close to my house to have the hive extend through the wall.
     

  3. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    Here is a link to previous thread. http://www.beekeepingforums.com/threads/7933-Observation-hive-recommendations
    Which hive design you chose depends on how you want to use the hives. Set it up for shore times, extended shows, permanent display? The Ulster would work well for extended showing but Would require often manipulations. But for the occasional use to take to schools or events it would be ideal. Pull frame with queen from nuc but never remove it from the nuc itself. so no problems reintroducing the queen back into the original colony.
     
  4. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    It's for occasional use using an existing nuc. The beekeeping association is visiting my farm on October 20 and 21st to educate any visitors to our bee themed corn maze. I thought it would be nice to have an observation hive on hand for demonstration purposes.
     
  5. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    Here's what I've worked up so far for the sides. I threw some dimensions on it.



    PK_Ulster Hive.png
     
  6. blueblood

    blueblood New Member

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    Nice...do you use google sketch too?
     
  7. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    I'm learning and this seemed like a good opportunity.
     
  8. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    Here's the next iteration. Anyone want to check for mistakes?

    PK_Ulster Hive 1.png
     
  9. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    already spotted one. gotta make a grove for the plexi in the bottom,and probably top too, of the observation portion of the hive.
     
  10. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    found a couple of other errors Here's what it looks like sort of assembled
     

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  11. Joe

    Joe New Member

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  12. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    Yep, that's about the only one out there that has any type of plan associated with it. The guy who made that also offered up a google sketchup of his design, but there are no measurements only an image.

    It is a great looking design and I'm probably going to steal his idea for the screened bottom using molding. Apart from that I'm going to take a more utilitarian approach. Straight angles instead of sweeping curves, and rabbet joints instead of box joints.

    One thing in particular that I didn't care for with that design was that the top could, if jostled, shift. I'll be the first to say that the likelihood of that happening is slim. But in my design, with the front and back as an apron, I'll be able to put two thumb screws in each side and be absolutely sure that it won't move. two more thumb screws for the cover on the top and It should be fairly secure.
     
  13. Joe

    Joe New Member

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  14. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    some more nice ideas. Thanks!
     
  15. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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  16. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    With the observation top overhanging the ends of the nuc box you need to double up the end piece with a piece of wood the width of the top with the groves for the plexi and for the frame to sit on. The frame rest should be down 3/4 Inch to allow for the bee space above the frame so bees can pass over. Vent Holes in the top or on the sides screened both sides. Bees get heated up in an observation hive. are you going to place the screen or queen excluder on the bottom side or top side of the nuc box lid. If top side so whole side of frame is seen you should have 9 7/8" from nuc lid top to bottom of display lid (Deep frame height 9 1/8" plus 2 bee spaces). If on the bottom the 9 7/8" will go from nuc lid bottom to bottom of display lid, and the frame bottom bar wont be seen. but the hole in the nuc lid needs to be large enough to allow for the frame and the bee space 1 3/8" wide 18 3/8" long. design it so you can lock the bees in the nuc securely so you can take it it to class rooms and malls cause once the community knows you have one they will be calling. So ventilation for the nuc also. But it looks like an easy to maintain design. good luck with it.
     
  17. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    I'm not quite sure that you mean. I plan on having groves for the plexi on both sides and the bottom piece of the top. I'm not seeing where I would need to double up the wood.

    I was planning on not giving them space to crawl over. Adding another bit of space shouldn't be an issue. I've got plenty of apron in my cut blanks to extend the piece down a bit

    Definitely! I just didn't bother trying to model them. I plan on a screened bottom plus adding vent holes to the top in various places

    Wasn't planning on using a queen excluder, should I? What would the benefit be? Well, other than keeping the queen up where people can see her.

    Lots to think about. Thanks for the post.
     
  18. Joe

    Joe New Member

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  19. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    It's better to think and discuss before than to have to rework it later. Your post has me thinking of making one myself.
     
  20. Papakeith

    Papakeith New Member

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    ahh, that was just a bad measurement on my part. I've extended the top bar to cover the upper sides.

    Another excellent point. I'll incorporate a double screen into the design anywhere a stray finger might come too close

    Here's the latest and greatest version.
     

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