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The fingers split quite easily so the pilot hole needs to be close to the nail shank size for the finger. You should not have to pilot the end grain. I would also pay the bit extra to get galvanized nails as the rot starts quickly around plain nails. I would say 2 1/2"

Personally I like deck screws but you have to pilot and countersink for the head as well but it is easier to hold things square for screwing than it is for hammering. I use 2" screws.

Glue and screw!
 

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What Crofter said:
I go with a slightly smaller nail at the top of the frame rest ends cause there is not alot of wood there. Anytime I have ordered supers they always come predrilled, with galvanized nails and frame rests included? Are these made by FW Jones?
I build most of my stuff now to save $$$.
 

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Crofter said:
The fingers split quite easily so the pilot hole needs to be close to the nail shank size for the finger. You should not have to pilot the end grain. I would also pay the bit extra to get galvanized nails as the rot starts quickly around plain nails. I would say 2 1/2"

Personally I like deck screws but you have to pilot and countersink for the head as well but it is easier to hold things square for screwing than it is for hammering. I use 2" screws.

Glue and screw!
As Crofter said plus one more thing, get a pair of 2 feet clamps, speeds up assembly, holds sides tight together before nailing/screwing.
 

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I used Titebond waterproof glue. The drilled and nailed with no. 6. nails. My finger joints were tight so no need to clamp. Might use deck screws I have left over next go around. Pre drill and dip threads in wax to ease screwing them in. Pine tends to split. Old carpenter's trick.
 

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The nails shipped from Dadant and Brushy are 7d galvanized , except for the very top one, which I think is a 4d.

If you are having to make your own holes , you may consider using screws as suggested, use a std tapered pilot drill first.

The Grip rite are good nails too.
 

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throw the hammer nails and drill away. get a cheap harbor freight brad nailer (20 bucks) some titebond glue and go to assymbling :thumbsup:
 

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Like CharlieB, I too no longer use nails, I use Titebond III and coated deck screws after drilling proper-sized pilot holes. In my climate nails, even ring shank nails, just "walk" out of the wood in a year or so.
 

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Got my order from Brushy mountain today. I order unassembled hive along with 7d nails, got 4d nails, so I went over to home depot and got some # 6x1&1/2 screws and they went together well. Believe I will use screws from now on on my hive boxes. Got a lot of other goodies too. I think I am in trouble with the wife for I started painting the hive stand and she had asked me 6 mths ago to paint the den and I kept putting it off so now I will have another job to do here at the house. With all the work I am having to do outside in the yards there is not enought time in the day, and to top it off I have 2 water leaks, one on the line coming into the house where I made a connection and the other under the bathroom and I have concert floors.

Kebee
 

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Heck, I'm building bee stuff right now, and we still don't have any baseboards, door or window trim in the house (since we reno'd the place we bought last summer!)
C'mon man, Priorities I say, Priorities! :mrgreen:
 

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One tip I'll pass to ya. When you get your first box togeather and its square, get 2'x2' peice of plywood and set your box in the center of it. Next get four 1x1s or 3/4x3/4 boards and snug them up tight to the sides of your box and screw em down to the plywood. Then when you get your next boxes to assemble all you have to do is glue the coners and drop the box into your jig and it holds the box square and togeather while you drill and screw/nail your corners. Jim
 
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