Wiring Foundation To Frames

Discussion in 'General Beekeeping' started by rail, Oct 2, 2012.

  1. rail

    rail New Member

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    I need to wire foundation into my jumbo frames. The jumbo foundation is hooked, vertical wired that is 10 5/8" deep. What is the proper way to wire foundation?
     
  2. blueblood

    blueblood New Member

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  3. riverrat

    riverrat New Member

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    several ways to wire treat it like any other deep frame. I run the wire on ever other eye some run it criss crossed from top hole to bottom in the side bar.
     
  4. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    Thee might not be one proper way to wire. Some people seem to think it worthwhile to skip a few holes to save a bit of wire, eyelets and time. I have never had my hands on jumbos but things that are a problem on deeps are more so with these.

    I have seen frames where the cross wires seem to have parted company with the virticals and the foundation curved away. I have seen posts that poo pooed that happening. If the vertical wires are tight top and bottom there is a tendency to cram them in and they will be wanting to buckle. If the foundation does not have a bit of wiggle room, trim the wires.

    Also the virtical crimped wires come off a roll continuously as they are embedded and sometimes they have tension in them that wants to make them spring back. You may not notice it if the foundation is pressed flat and cold the wax will hold it straight but the heat from the hive or storing it can let the virtical wires take a curve. Here it is important to make sure that the cross wires are on the side that is likely to bow out. The foundation cant move out without coming up against the cross wires. If they are on the other side it is only the grip from your embedding of the cross wires that can hold the foundations straight.

    I think 6 wires for the jumbos and I would use them all. Bent foundation messes up the adjacent frames and costs you brood space; not easy to fix properly in hindsight. Don't cheap out at the wiring stage when you are now down to the short strokes, lol!
    If you dont have an electric embedder, buy or build one.
     
  5. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    ""If the vertical wires are tight top and bottom there is a tendency to cram them in and they will be wanting to buckle.""

    If you use split bottom bars, they will have plenty of wiggle room.

    Rail, I have embedding wire and embedder. Bring your frames down and we will wire them.

    PS. Randolph bee club meeting is tonight.
     
  6. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    Iddee;

    Yep 100%, but all combinations of brands and styles sometimes get pressed into service together, some times without knowing that it can cause a problem later.
     
  7. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    Using the wrong foundation in any frame can cause problems. If proper equipment isn't used, the keep deserves trouble.
     
  8. rail

    rail New Member

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    I have wanted to attend the bee club meetings, my work schedule (swinging shifts) does not always allow. Let me get some frames assembled and I will let you wire them.
     
  9. Crofter

    Crofter New Member

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    Yah, I guess you are right Iddee, let them learn the hard way!
     
  10. Iddee

    Iddee New Member

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    OR
    Tell them the right way and laugh when they don't listen.
    :thumbsup:

     
  11. Marbees

    Marbees Member

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    Crofter:Yah, I guess you are right Iddee, let them learn the hard way!
    Iddee:Tell them the right way and laugh when they don't listen. :thumbsup:
    For a moment Crofter and Iddee reminded me on those two muppet guys on the balcony:lol::lol:

     
  12. heinleinfan

    heinleinfan New Member

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    I switched to fishing line 2 years ago for wiring my deep foundations. No matter how careful I was with embedding, I still had rows of untouched cells on many frames and was tired of that, plus the fishing line takes about 1/3 the time and is much cheaper. I use a 10 pound line and still go through every hole in a criss-cross and don't skip any, and I don't use eyelets.

    I'm not worried about super strength since even if I do go to using an extractor for honey one day instead of crush and strain, I won't be extracting deeps only super frames.

    I don't have any warped frames and I've not had any issues with the vertical wires warping so far and they're good and strong even when it's 100 degrees out and things are softer than usual in the hive. I don't have any more rows of skipped cells either! I'm not using jumbo, only regular Lang deeps.
     
  13. ApisBees

    ApisBees Active Member

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    Wiring of frames is more essential for when you are going to be extracting the combs to hold them straight and keep them from buckling and blowing out. You will be using them for the brood chamber so you want to have the foundation held straight while the bees draw it out and lay in it. after a few rounds of brood the frames will be indestructible.
    as mentioned before when the vertical wires are placed in the foundation it most times causes the wax to bow in one direction. Placing the bowed side against the horizontal frame wire and imbedding the wire is not so critical. when I played with jumbo frames in 2 hives years ago I used 2 wires and imbedded them from one side and started the colonies by placing the jumbo over a deep and when the box was about 1/2 drawn and the queen was laying in the jumbo moved the bottom for a split.
    To embed the wire i use a model train transformer. It is 12 volts but it has an adjustable output so you can adjust the heat and time it takes. A car race track transformer would work also but a little harder to control. You could tape a block of wood under the trigger so it could only be depressed so far.
    On these frames you could use Heinleinfan's idea and use fishing line as they wont be extracted. I don't know if I would trust it on frames going thru the extractor with the forces created and tendency for nylon line to stretch.